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<\/a>Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.<\/strong> Afternoon storm is approaching, punctual as it is.<\/p>\n\n\n\n After 2 weeks here, the Engagi Lodge is the 1st hotel that serves wifi & electricity 24\/7, give or take minor breaks due to weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bwindi mountains, covered with rainforest, rise steeply behind the river that runs in the valley below. A breathtaking green wall.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Waller’s Starlings up in the waterfall. Stylish black with an orange wing patch. A strong call easily heard over the roar of water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Hadeda Ibis is the animal counterpart of Nelson in The Simpsons. Ha-ha!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Marabou Stork is nicely described in Birds of East Africa: “Legs dark grey but often appear white as splattered with excrement.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n In LinkedIn, is there a section for Gorilla Tracking Certificates?<\/p>\n\n\n\n African Harrier-Hawk has “a bare yellow facial skin (turns red if excited).” True, noticed when one pair was welcoming each other.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Later, one of the same species was vigorously trying to raid a cavity nest in the savannah in Ishasha, Queen Elisabeth Natural Park (QENP)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Primates so far, in order of appearance: Red-tailed Monkey, Grey-cheeked Mangabey, Chimpanzee (Kibale) 1\/3<\/p>\n\n\n\n Red Colobus, L’Hoest’s Monkey, Pied Colobus (Kibale) 2\/3<\/p>\n\n\n\n Olive Baboon, Vervet Monkey (QENP); Gorilla, Blue Monkey (Bwindi) 3\/3<\/p>\n\n\n\n A high-pitched call of a Galago (aka bushbaby) at 7:45PM when returning from dinner w\/ an escort to treehouse. Chimp’s Nest, Kibale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Escort is there for the African Forest Elephants, although we’re told they cross the swampy area nearby mainly in the rainy season.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The field guide of African mammals by J. Kingdon says that there are 15 Galago species in Africa. That is quite a lot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Galagos resemble Asian tarsiers but are not related. Similarly, African pottos look like Asian slow lorises.<\/p>\n\n\n\n While at QENP, we stayed first at Jacana Safari Lodge, famous of its hippos that swim around the crater lake. There are 30 of them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In daytime, you hear them splutter and puff, often very close to houses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Around 7 PM, the hippos use their fav landing site behind house nro 11, and march to the forest or savannah to feed on grass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The forest is Maramagambo<\/strong>, governed by UWA (Ugandan Wildlife Authority) & National Forest Authority. We made two walks with their guide.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We had no previous knowledge of the bat cave that was on the agenda. The cave is home to a staggering 2 million Egyptian fruit bats<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n “At dawn, it takes 3 hours of them to be all back in again.” The officer smiles widely, and concludes matter-of-factly with a “Yes”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Non-breeding bats poop near the cave. This brings insects, food for mother & baby bats which don’t fly far to feed like the rest of the colony.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The bat guano is nothing to play with. It is known\/suspected to be the cause to Marburg virus feaver.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Jacana Lodge was on low gear. Except us, there were only two other guests, guys from CDC<\/a>, Atlanta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n “Don’t step inside the cave, even if they say you can do so. Our researchers go there in protective suits.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the previous day, we had already been outside the open cave, filming the buzz from the nearby cliff. A mesmerizing place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Luckily we have been travelling a bit and know e.g. that you shouldn’t go into caves just like that, not w\/o a helmet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Next day: same place, a longer filming session. Again, no official information about any risks, but also no pushing to go inside.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Forest walks are a source of income to the UWA\/NFA. Negative info = less money. CDC has plans to put up warning signs. We’ll see.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When chimps hunt, they prefer Red Colobus. “In the last 3 weeks, they’ve hunted twice”, we’re told in Kibale Chimpanzee Habituation<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n “Colobuses are not very bright. They don’t run away but try to fight back.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pied Colobus has a fancy b&w fur, a serious risk for its existence. Locals have used it as decoration in their dance rituals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Around Jacana Safari Lodge, Pied Colobuses feel safe. They sleep around the houses, and feed in trees near the shore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n One of the marvels of this W Uganda, is their deep, guttural call in the blackness of the night.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On higher elevations, like in Bwindi (1500 m) the fur of Pied Colobus is longer. Haven’t had a chance to check that myself though.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The 2 hr boat ride on Kazinga Channel <\/strong>is 2 hours well spent. The number of animals basking on the shore is almost stupifying.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Hippos, buffalos, elephants, crocodiles, monitor lizards, herons, storks, fish eagles and what have you. Pied Kingfishers abound.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The HQ of the Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary<\/strong> has got a colorful text painted on the wall:”The home of turacos.” They don’t lie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On a AM walk around the swamp, I saw at least a dozen Great Blue Turacos. So did the Wikipedia <\/a>photographer, I guess.<\/p>\n\n\n\n “Your money”, says Brighton when we drive the surprisingly well-kept road through QENP from Jacana Lodge to Ishasa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bulldozers spread new gravel constantly, making both sides of the road soft and a bit hazardous. But, no potholes whatsoever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Brighton is a man of many roles: representative of Churchill Safaris and Travel, driver, birder, and a trusted person in general.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ishasha Wilderness Camp in QENP in Uganda was a much more diverse wildlife experience than just the tree lions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On two days in the row, around noon, an elephant family of five came to drink to the river that runs past the camp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A lone bull elephant was also nearby. We heard him huff & puff and broke branches. Later, he walked lazily along the river bank.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Some of the bird species at the camp: Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill, Emerald Cuckoo, Broad-billed Roller, Splendid Starling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Spectacular Blue-headed Agamas, a group of Pied Colobus etc – every second something to watch or listen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Although the gorilla tracking in Bwindi was a minor disappointment, the forest walk w\/ Medard “Medi” Twongyeirwe was very good.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A jovial guy w\/ a personal touch to nature be it butterflies or monkies, he made the AM a special one. Thanks again and greetings!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Two days ago, we crossed the border to Rwanda. The first place to visit: Volcanoes National Park<\/strong> up in 2 km.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The half-day gorilla tracking tour in the park was IMHO a more pleasant and pro experience in all aspects than that in Bwindi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A 2hr muddy walk along a fresh buffalo track, through a beautiful bamboo forest, took us to the Agasha Group.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This habituated group seemed to be at ease w\/ itself & us. Eating, farting, wrestling, climbing, sitting – gorilla quality time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Although this is a tour to see part of the nature in Uganda and Rwanda, one cannot be blind to human issues either.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Near Kisoro, Uganda, were we had a lunch break before crossing the border to Rwanda, is the Nyakabange Refugee Transit Centre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Yesterday, on our 7 hr drive from Volcanoes NP to Nyungwe Forest, we passed the Kigeme refugee camp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Both of these sites are operated by UNHCR, and they are for people who have fled from the DR of Congo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The primate list has grown with two: Golden Monkey (Volcanoes NP); Dent’s (Mona) Monkey (Nyungwe Forest NP)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nyungwe Forest Lodge<\/strong> is built in the middle of a tea plantation owned by the Rwandan government.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Once, the area was part of the forest, faved by Mountain Elephants due to its flat profile compared to the rest of Nyungwe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Although the biodiversity on the plantation is low, the mighty Nyungwe surrounds it, giving few surprises during our 5 night stay.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Two groups of monkies made a call: Blue & L’Hoest’s. Also, 3 types of squirrels: Sun, Rope, Mountain (hard to identify the species).<\/p>\n\n\n\n 30 min drive from the Lodge on the top-notch asphalt road through the NP, is the impressive Kamiranzovu swamp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This time though, we had no chance to see it closer than just as a view up from the road.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Thanks to the flexibility of the NP office, we could take a 3 hr forest walk w\/ a local naturalist guide to see Dent’s Mona Monkeys.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Dent’s is a smallish, agile, white & brown monkey w\/ a selection of human-like calls and a distinctive mask, like dark sunglasses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sometimes wildlife watching is so dead simple (and comfortable). Like right now, in Karibu Guesthouse, Entebbe<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Since dawn, several new bird species have passed by or briefly stayed in the garden or on the roofs of neighbour houses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Grey Parrot (1st parrot on this trip), Eastern Grey Plantain-Eater, White-browed Robin-Chat, Scarlet-chested Sunbird.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The “aah-aaaah-aaah” laugh of Black-and-white-casqued Hornbills. Ross’s Turacos on top of the avocado tree leaning to the house.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A pair of African Hobbies (?) tries to chase Pied Crows from their nesting tree I guess. Slender figures, shrill “kri-kri-kri”<\/p>\n\n\n\n Barbets always electrify the moment. A pair of Double-toothed Barbets sits motionless up on a tree. Red chest, huge ivory bill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Yet another stupifyingly colourful bird: Black-headed Gonolek. Lurks horizontally among branches at eye-level.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The tropical zone of the Entebbe Botanical Gardens is said to have been the backdrop of the first Tarzan film.<\/p>\n\n\n\n One cannot but envy the young NZ-Corsican couple owning & running Karibu Guesthouse with their staff of 20 and three dogs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Perfect location with a view to Lake Victoria, elegant house, nice little garden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n At the construction site on the next lot, the ‘Silent night’ Xmas theme as the mobile tone, is a work song of the new generation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Plantain-Eater is an odd bird. Bill of a parrot, neck of an eagle, call of a Kookaburra, moves about on a tree like a cuckoo.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Ilmestynyt alun perin Twitteriss\u00e4. Uganda Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Afternoon storm is approaching, punctual as it is. After 2 weeks here, the Engagi Lodge is the 1st hotel that serves wifi & electricity 24\/7, give or take minor breaks due to weather. Bwindi mountains, covered with rainforest, rise steeply behind the river that runs in the … Continue reading Uganda ja Ruanda | Uganda and Rwanda 18.1-16.2.2014<\/span> <\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a>Ruanda | Rwanda<\/h5>\n\n\n\n
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