{"id":845,"date":"2022-10-30T22:45:30","date_gmt":"2022-10-30T20:45:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/?p=845"},"modified":"2024-09-20T13:19:38","modified_gmt":"2024-09-20T10:19:38","slug":"brasilia-pantanal-2014","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/?p=845","title":{"rendered":"Brasilia, Pantanal 2014"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Julkaistu alun perin Facebookissa ja Twitteriss\u00e4. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 versiossa poistettu toimimattomia linkkej\u00e4 yms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>9.8<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"224\" src=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/hazienda-1024x224.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-846\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/hazienda-1024x224.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/hazienda-300x66.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/hazienda-768x168.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/hazienda-624x137.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Place: <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/pages\/Hotel-Fazenda-Baia-das-Pedras\/235965066528986\">Hotel Fazenda Baia das Pedras<\/a> (-19.2568653384, -55.7862468326)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Address: Campo Grande, MS, Brazil<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Aamup\u00e4iv\u00e4n  autokierros sill\u00e4 osaa tiluksia, joka on tulvan alla. &#8220;This is the  fourth year when rainy season and dry season are kind of mixed&#8221;, sanoo  luonto-opas Stefan joka tuli samalla Cessna-kyydill\u00e4 Campo Grandesta.  &#8220;It&#8217;s been raining quite a lot in a few weeks&#8221;.<br><br>Sit\u00e4 en  tiennyt, ett\u00e4 suurin osa t\u00e4t\u00e4 Pantanalin suistoaluetta on  yksityisomistuksessa. Kaikki yht\u00e4 suurta ulkoilmael\u00e4intarhaa; samalla  tulvaniityll\u00e4 nautoja, hevosia, kapybaroja, kaimaaneja ja sikoja.  Viimeksi mainittuja on sek\u00e4 kesyj\u00e4 ett\u00e4 villiintyneit\u00e4 (feral pigs).<br><br>Doio ja Rita Coelho Liman tilalla on kokoa 17 000 hehtaaria. Parikymment\u00e4 kilometri\u00e4 suuntaansa.<br><br>Kylm\u00e4 s\u00e4\u00e4rintama on p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4, ja n\u00e4kyvyytt\u00e4 muutama sata metri\u00e4 aina kello kymmeneen asti. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>13.8 Tweets<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The fan bolted to the wall has the same sound as the 4-seat Cessna we  flew with from Campo Grande in here, Baia das Pedras, Pantanal. The skyline of Campo Grande is surprisingly grand. &#8220;Cow money&#8221;, says Stefan, a naturalist guide who came to Brazil five years ago. The city has got one of the biggest slaughterhouses in South America. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The wifi of the lodge is aptly named &#8216;INTERNET&#8217;. No password. Here, the nearest neighbour is more than 20 km away. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The cattle ranch of Doio and Rita Coelho Lima is 17 000 hectars, twice the size of the metropolitan area of S\u00e3o Paulo. Everything is XL incl. the Giant Armadillos, the main reason why we stay here. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pantanal is privately owned, give or take some smaller patches of land. For research, this is not necessarily a bad thing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>14.8<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On the far end of the sandy courtyard is the tent camp of the research team. Under a low shelter nearby is the cage of Gaja. Gaja is trained to become an armadillo tracker. &#8220;She also finds bat  guano&#8221;, explains her owner, a biologist-cum-dog entrepreneur. The dog already masters the various flavors of the armadillo scent. Next lesson: how to stay put when a nesting burrow is found. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dr. Arnaud Desbiez locks his dark eyes on you and fires a series of sarcastic comments. &#8220;In-the-resting&#8217;? So British. Field work is boooring&#8221;. Arnaud knows the ins and outs of his field of research. It&#8217;s also  obvious that in him the team has a leader who is fun to work with. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed-youtube wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Mating frenzy of Six-Banded Armadillos 4\" width=\"474\" height=\"267\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/ss8Uz2WqFw8?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Mating frenzy of Yellow Armadillos 4-5 PM. Much running on a sandy road,  digging reddish soil, pushing &amp; hissing. 1 female, 4 males.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The ranch has nearly 6000 cows. Last year, pumas killed 50 calves. Rita raises seven fingers. &#8220;Jaguar kills.&#8221; <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On one side of the main building: 75 yro mango trees, a perfect shade  for a herd of domestic pigs in all sizes &amp; color combinations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The late Michael Jackson would be green with envy. This is a vast  private zoo where rare wildlife wanders together with livestock.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>9-11 AM, Gabriel Massocato plays (well) a double role: polite host  serving water and crackers &amp; serious scientist doing field work. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We are at the Cerrado, sitting quietly under a lone tree. 20 meters  ahead of us, underground, is a Southern Naked-tailed Armadillo. This is nature geocaching with high stakes. The animal (it&#8217;s a she) has got a GPS chip. The battery lasts for about 8 months.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed-flickr wp-block-embed is-type-photo is-provider-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/flickr.com\/photos\/dadaa\/15145906741\/in\/album-72157646856903870\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/3898\/15145906741_7a024cfbfe_n.jpg\" alt=\"Armadillo Channel\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" \/><\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Gabriel takes a light, hand-held antenna (familiar from nature  documentaries), clicks the receiver to channel 6, and concentrates. Faint, steady PINGs among electrical cacophony. Gabriel nods. &#8220;Still  there.&#8221; When the armadillo moves, the sound begins to oscillate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>She was found by the Giant Armadillo Project. &#8220;By accident&#8221;, Gabriel  smiles behind his sunglasses. He observes her from time to time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The armadillo comes up few times a day between 9 and 15, and stays out  in the open from a few minutes up to half an hour. We wait. Gabriel tiptoes forward, listens, and draws a circle in the air ~5m from the hole the animal had dug, went into, and covered. &#8220;I heard it brake a root, it&#8217;s on a move&#8221;. Cameras, ready. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The script said that she&#8217;d first put out her nose, sniff the air ~5 min, and when all clear, start walking about. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>What she did however, was that she basically popped up at once, and scurried behind a hump of ground at the back of the stage. Maybe she was extra hungry. During the ~10 min she was up, she started to dig in several places, looking for ants and termites. Big ears, that was my first impression of the armadillo. Didn&#8217;t really  have the chance to see its big claws, nor the famous tail. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The most common avian predator is Southern Crested Caracara. I don&#8217;t  fancy acts of chase, but this time couldn&#8217;t help watching one.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We were filming the nest of a Jabiru, 100 m from the main building. The nest is on a massive dead tree overlooking a sheep pen. Enter Caracara, chaising a Cattle Egret, which is roughly its size. Such  a dumb idea of the egret to land inside the cramped pen! Sheep are not the smartest of animals, but the way they totally ignored what was going on around them, was odd. Caracara hops from sheep to sheep, trying to catch the egret that zigzags in the dense jungle of feet. When it all starts to look desperate, a miracle: the egret gets enough  space and flies over the wire fence. There, it finds allies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nesting Southern Lapwings patrol the wet fields, chasing away all suspicious creatures, in which they include everyone. What lapwings do not tolerate a second are raptors. The caracara doesn&#8217;t take any risks of loosing tail feathers, and gives up. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>15.8<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In the dusk, few dozen Nacunda Nighthawks lay on the ground near water, purring. Then, in a white flash of fluttering wings, they all take off at the same time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Although this is dry season, it&#8217;s been raining so much that low areas  are flooding. Capybaras, caimans, frogs &amp; waterfowl everywhere.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>All big parrots are fantastic, but Hyacint Macaws are stupendous in so many ways. When you see them on the ground, breaking nuts with their huge bill, you  start to suspect that wordly scales are somehow distorted. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>16.8<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On a shelf in the corner of the cabin is a small gadget. Every 15 min it  emits repellent w\/ a loud sneeze as if it&#8217;d have a bad cold.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/tree.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-850\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/tree.jpg 600w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/tree-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Ip\u00ea-amarelos are in full bloom. The yellow is so &#8211; yellow  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>16.8<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/campo-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-847\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/campo-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/campo-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/campo-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/campo-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/campo-624x624.jpg 624w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/campo.jpg 1936w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Place: <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/facebook.com\/hotelmohave\">Hotel Mohave<\/a> (-20.46708, -54.63005)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Address: Avenida Afonso Pena, 602, 79005-001 Campo Grande, MS, Brazil<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Eilen: kuusi tuntia Pantanalista t\u00e4nne poliisin kyydiss\u00e4. <br><br>&#8220;On the road&#8221;, sanoi Stefan ja piirsi virtuaalihipsut. Ensin ranchilta  kaksi tuntia tiet\u00f6nt\u00e4 savannia, sitten j\u00e4rjett\u00f6m\u00e4n p\u00f6lyinen suora kohti  Campo Grandea. Toisessa suunnassa tie p\u00e4\u00e4ttyy toiseen farmiin; tie on  olemassa jotta karjankuljetusautot p\u00e4\u00e4sev\u00e4t t\u00e4nne osaa Pantanalia  hakemaan el\u00e4imet Campo Grandeen teurastettaviksi.<br><br>Jefferson,  v\u00e4h\u00e4puheinen kolmekymppinen on ammatiltaan poliisi mutta tekee my\u00f6s  ajokeikkaa Pantanaliin. Eik\u00e4 siin\u00e4 kaikki, ammattilent\u00e4j\u00e4opinnot ovat  puoliv\u00e4liss\u00e4.<br><br>Taajamasta toiseen. Aamiaisen j\u00e4lkeen taksi kent\u00e4lle ja Gol-koneen nokka kohti Cuiab\u00e1a, pohjoisen Mato Grosson p\u00e4\u00e4kaupunkia.<br><br>Campo Grande on toffeen yst\u00e4vien salainen kokoontumispaikka. T\u00e4st\u00e4 ja muusta ensi kerralla. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>17.8 Tweets<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Traffic around the airport of Cuiab\u00e1, the capital of Mato Grosso, is slightly chaotic.  A tram line is under construction. Tracks are there already, and the site is buzzing with workforce.  On the horizon, Cuiab\u00e1s skyscrapers. This is the town of Varz\u00e9a Grande.   <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To see some wildlife, you only need to drive 30 minutes, pass 50 roundabouts and cross 100 speed bumps.  And not just &#8220;some&#8221; wildlife but Black-tailed Marmosets, living in a tiny protected area of 4 hectars. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed-flickr wp-block-embed is-type-photo is-provider-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/flickr.com\/photos\/dadaa\/15145371721\/in\/album-72157647210583436\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/5594\/15145371721_f3b3c61ba1.jpg\" alt=\"Black (Long) -tailed Marmoset\" width=\"375\" height=\"500\" \/><\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The marmosets are so used to people (and bananas they usually bring) that it doesn&#8217;t take long before the group is there.  We people are different in that a) no bananas and b) we climbed over the fence to get in. Unlike agreed, the gate was closed.  Anyway, marmosets were fun to watch. Sadly, all man-made noise almost drowned their very high-pitched, birdlike communication. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Next: on Transpantaneira as long as it lasts, which is Porto Jofre. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>20.8 Tweets<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Transpantaneira is a dirt road. Before it reaches Porto Jofre, you&#8217;ve crossed 145 wooden bridges (says the driver, Wikipedia: 122).  Before long, roadsides begin to be marked by motionless, gleaming, 1-2 m long items that seem to be casted out of metal.  The number of Spectacled Caimans is staggering. In the late morning sun, these crocodilian reptiles look like seals.  On top of electric power poles: bulky, multichambered nests of Monk  Parakeet colonies. The power line ends hrs before the 6 hr ride. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>21.8 Tweets<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8216;ONE JAGUAR PER LINE, PLS.&#8217; Onboard the Jaguar Flotel operated by SouthWild, on a white felt pen board, is a jag log.  The flotel is anchored on the Cuiab\u00e1 river bank, 30 min boat ride from Porto Jofre.  Jaguar data is a table. Sightings in rows, variables in columns: date, name, relation, time, where, behaviors.  The oldest date on the board is 13th August. &#8220;On average, we see 2.5 jaguars per day&#8221;, says Dr. Charles A. Munn.  Data confirms his words. 14 rows in the last 7 days. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Munn is a known figure in nature tourism of S America. Tall, dreamy-eyed  and courteous, he is a successful businessman personified.  Finnish names incl. ours are notoriously difficult to pronounce. Not to him. Busy, Munn is only on a short visit to the flotel. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Arms race also in Pantanal. The bigger engine on the boat, the quicker  you arrive to the jag; the longer lens, the closer close-ups.  When the walkie-talkie shouts &#8220;on\u00e7a!&#8221;, big guys &amp; girls vanish  behind the next bend, leaving us put-putting in their foamy waves.  Then again, we are here longer than most, six nights. Average on this flotel seems to be 2.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed-flickr wp-block-embed is-type-photo is-provider-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/flickr.com\/photos\/dadaa\/14961401480\/in\/album-72157647210137726\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/65535\/14961401480_c403066784_n.jpg\" alt=\"P1070772\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" \/><\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8220;Very large and heavy, built for power, not for speed&#8221; as Louise H. Emmons puts it.  The first wild jaguar I see in my life walks languidly along a river  bank. It&#8217;s 4 PM, and the heat of the day is slowly cooling down.  In today&#8217;s beauty standards, the cat might perhaps lose some pounds. Still, a handsome animal.  &#8220;In Amazon, jaguars weigh up to 120 kg, here to 150&#8221;, says Oscar who is  guiding us. He is a lowland Peruvian w\/ experience on both.  The patterns on the body resemble the city block structure of Barcelona from above. The rest is more plotty.   People in SouthWild know the local population. 20+ different individuals are identified.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>During the daily agenda of 5+3 hrs on the boat, slowly going up and down  the small tributaries of Cuiab\u00e1, your mind starts to wander.  Water has the color of liquid cream fudge. The riverbed looks convex.  Filming here is nerve-wrecking. Photographers can shoot from the boat but for the tripod we need solid ground, often N\/A.  Also, no chance of natural sound. Engines, walkie-talkie blabber and  human OOH!&#8217;s fill the audio track. Understandable, unavoidable.  Rant over. In 4 days, good footage of 9 different big cats, one found by  us (=captain). You become spoiled so easily, and want more. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The flotel creates a small watery ecosystem between it and the shore. In its fauna: Amazon Kingfisher, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Rufous-Tailed  Jacamar, Yellow-billed Cardinal, capybara (w\/ 2 cubs), caiman. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"223\" src=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/br2-1-1024x223.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-851\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/br2-1-1024x223.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/br2-1-300x65.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/br2-1-768x167.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/br2-1-624x136.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"960\" height=\"720\" src=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/br.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-848\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/br.jpg 960w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/br-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/br-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/br-624x468.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>On the same (!) side of the river but 100 m away, under the shade of a tree, a female jaguar named Patricia.  Patricia had a sore left front paw. When she finally stood up and walked away, she limped.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>22.8<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Jaguar Flotellin peltikatto laajenee r\u00e4m\u00e4ht\u00e4en keskip\u00e4iv\u00e4n auringossa.<br><br>Ollaan Cuiab\u00e1-joella, puolen tunnin venematkan p\u00e4\u00e4ss\u00e4 Porto Jofresta.<br><br>Joen rantapenkasta kuuluu Rufous-tailed Jacamarin kireit\u00e4, yksitt\u00e4isi\u00e4 kirkaisuja. <br><br>Siin\u00e4 parin metrin levyisess\u00e4, muutama kymmenen metri\u00e4 pitk\u00e4ss\u00e4  vesiekosysteemiss\u00e4, jonka SouthWild-firman asuntolaiva muodostaa penkan  puolelle, muutama Amazon Kingfisher kisaa strategisesti parhaista  oksista puussa. Puu on joskus kaatunut jokeen mutta toistaiseksi j\u00e4\u00e4nyt  paikalleen, koska juuristo haraa viel\u00e4 vastaan. Kuningaskalastajalle on a  ja o saada hyv\u00e4 paikka mist\u00e4 tuijottaa pikkukaloja. <br><br>Capybara  on t\u00e4sm\u00e4lleen saman v\u00e4rinen kuin penkan savi. Ruskea, mutainen ja  auringon kilon juovittama. Sen kaksi pient\u00e4 poikasta &#8211; normaali  lapsiperheen koko t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 &#8211; erottuvat juuri ja juuri, niin tiukasti ne  painautuvat emon takaliston suojaan. Penkkaa ei t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kohtaa ole  nimeksik\u00e4\u00e4n. <br><br>Silm\u00e4lasikaimaani on liikkumattomana pysymisen  ammattilainen. Vaatii melkoisia lihaksia olla tekem\u00e4tt\u00e4 mit\u00e4\u00e4n, vaikka  paksu panssari ehk\u00e4 jeesaakin. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 paikassa se on yksin, mutta  pienill\u00e4 sivujoilla niit\u00e4 on niin paljon, ett\u00e4 vaikka moottoriveneen  kuljettaja yritt\u00e4\u00e4 v\u00e4istell\u00e4, aina johonkin kopsahtaa. Kaimaaniurosten  tyyliin kuuluu kellua keskell\u00e4 jokea osoittamassa miss\u00e4 menee veteen  piirrettyn\u00e4 viivana niiden reviiri. Isoimpia lukuun ottamatta kaikki  lopulta v\u00e4ist\u00e4v\u00e4t. Isot kihot eiv\u00e4t liikahda vaan alkavat uhittelemaan  veneelle; matalat, \u00e4\u00e4nekk\u00e4\u00e4t urahdukset kuulostavat matelijaksi  harvinaisen nis\u00e4k\u00e4sm\u00e4isilt\u00e4.<br><br>Flotellin capybara on sekin  poikkeus. Yleens\u00e4 n\u00e4m\u00e4 isot jyrsij\u00e4t ovat pienin\u00e4 perhekuntina avarilla  paikoilla jokien vihreill\u00e4 rantat\u00f6rmill\u00e4 tai hiekkas\u00e4rkill\u00e4. Ne erottaa  jo kaukaa. Kuono on tutun neliskanttinen ja koko olemus p\u00f6n\u00e4kk\u00e4  vertikaalinen m\u00f6ntti horisontaalisessa maisemassa. &#8220;Unmistakable&#8221; kuten  tavataan sanoa el\u00e4imest\u00e4, jota ei hevill\u00e4 voi luulla muuksi.  Etel\u00e4-Pantanalin puolella, Baia das Pedraksen tulvaniityill\u00e4,  villiintyneit\u00e4 isoja sikoja saattoi erehty\u00e4 pit\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n capybaroina ja  p\u00e4invastoin, koska korkea hein\u00e4 esti n\u00e4kyvyytt\u00e4 ja aakeaa laakeaa oli  kilometritolkulla. T\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 pohjoisen suistoalueella n\u00e4kee sivusuunnassa  vain joen leveydelt\u00e4, eteen ja taakse sen verran kun joessa on suoraa  p\u00e4tk\u00e4\u00e4, mik\u00e4 ei yleens\u00e4 ole paljon. Eip\u00e4 silti, vedess\u00e4 veneess\u00e4  mittasuhteet ovat vaikeita, tottumattomalle. <br><br>Kahdeksan tuntia  p\u00e4iv\u00e4ss\u00e4, viisi p\u00e4iv\u00e4\u00e4 putkeen. Veneess\u00e4 ei ole katosta. Viel\u00e4 ei  auringonpistosta ole tullut, vaikka sit\u00e4 tarmokkaasti nen\u00e4st\u00e4  kaivetaankin. <br><br>Per\u00e4moottorin heppam\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4 on niin vaatimaton,  ett\u00e4 kuljettaja on peitt\u00e4nyt koko hoidon hupulla. T\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 jyll\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t  v\u00e4hint\u00e4\u00e4n 100-hevosvoimaiset. Sen todella huomaa kun tulee kiire. Hetki  vain, ja muut veneet kaartavat n\u00e4kym\u00e4tt\u00f6miin. Me putputamme per\u00e4ss\u00e4,  isoja j\u00e4lkimaininkeja v\u00e4istellen. <br><br>Eip\u00e4 silti, meill\u00e4 on aikaa. Kuusi y\u00f6t\u00e4, kun muut ovat flotellilla keskim\u00e4\u00e4rin noin kaksi.<br><br>Kiireen aloittaa radiopuhelimen yht\u00e4kkinen, s\u00e4r\u00f6inen metakka. <br><br>&#8220;On\u00e7a?&#8221; Perusta kotoisin oleva luonto-opas Oscar, joka istuu  etutuhdolla, k\u00e4\u00e4ntyy kuljettajaan p\u00e4in. Moottorin p\u00e4rin\u00e4lt\u00e4 ei kuule  mit\u00e4\u00e4n, mutta Oscarin huulilta pystyy lukemaan. T\u00e4m\u00e4, &#8220;Otra on\u00e7a?&#8221; ja  &#8220;Vamos&#8221; muodostavat oppaan ja kuljettajan v\u00e4lisen keskeisen, yhteisen  sanavaraston. Oscar puhuu espanjaa ja v\u00e4h\u00e4n englantia, kuljettaja vain  portugalia. Me istumme keskell\u00e4 ja viittil\u00f6imme mill\u00e4 kielell\u00e4 vaan.<br><br>Kun jaguaarihavainto on varmistunut, nupit kaakkoon! Se lis\u00e4\u00e4 volyymi\u00e4, ei juurikaan vauhtia.<br><br>V\u00e4limatkojen taittaminen kest\u00e4\u00e4 yleens\u00e4 puolesta tunnista tuntiin. Aina  ei ehdit\u00e4 paikalle ajoissa. Finder&#8217;s keepers tuntuu olevan vallalla,  eli ne jotka jaguaarin \u00e4kk\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t, saavat kuvata jonkun aikaa ennen kuin  ilmoittavat muille. Jos ilmoittavat. T\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 pelataan kaikenlaista peli\u00e4.<br><br>Oscar on kriittinen Brasilian ja eritoten Pantanalin menolle. &#8220;No  rules, no national park. In Man\u00fa, we have rules.&#8221; Man\u00fan  kansallispuistosta Perussa on juteltu sen mit\u00e4 keskustelemaan on  pystytty, koska 2007 syys-lokakuussa olimme siell\u00e4, ja paikka on my\u00f6s  Oscarille tuttu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>T\u00e4m\u00e4 osa Pantanalia on valtion omistamaa,  mutta kukaan muu ei valvo mit\u00e4 t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 tehd\u00e4\u00e4n ja miten, kuin turismia  py\u00f6ritt\u00e4v\u00e4t yritykset itse. Kansallispuisto toisi sis\u00e4\u00e4np\u00e4\u00e4symaksun,  jolla palkata valvojia. Ei se tietysti ainoa ratkaisu ole. My\u00f6s  neighbour watch voi toimia, mutta vain jos kaikilla on yhteinen eettinen  s\u00e4\u00e4nn\u00f6st\u00f6 kirkkaana mieless\u00e4 ja sit\u00e4 noudatetaan. N\u00e4in ei ole.  Houkutukset ovat liian suuret. T\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n n\u00e4htiin esimerkki.<br><br> J\u00e4ttil\u00e4isjokisaukkoja ei tapaa usein, vaikka ne eiv\u00e4t varsinaisesti  harvinaisia olekaan. Kaikki toki haluavat niist\u00e4 kuvia. Hurjia, isoja,  kuvauksellisia el\u00e4imi\u00e4. <br><br>Pantanal Eco Explorer oli paikalla  kahdella veneell\u00e4. Toisessa oli kuljettajan lis\u00e4ksi joukko vanhempia  naisia, toisessa yksin\u00e4inen mies. Kaikilla isot putket kameroissa ja  muutkin v\u00e4lineet viimeist\u00e4 huutoa. Ammattikuvaajia tai kunnianhimoisia  amat\u00f6\u00f6rej\u00e4.<br><br>Naisten vene ohjattiin jatkuvasti kaikkien muitten  eteen, aivan saukkojen viereen. Muut veneet pitiv\u00e4t et\u00e4isyytt\u00e4 v\u00e4hint\u00e4\u00e4n  5-10 metri\u00e4, mik\u00e4 on virtapaikoissa inhimillist\u00e4 (tai el\u00e4imellist\u00e4,  milt\u00e4 kantilta sen nyt ottaa).<br><br>Miehen veneen annettiin vapaasti  ajautua kiinni saukkoihin niin, ett\u00e4 niiden oli pakko sukeltaa viime  hetkell\u00e4 turvaan. Kun osa saukkoryhm\u00e4st\u00e4 siirtyi pienelle lammelle, sama  vene ohjattiin sen suulle. N\u00e4in saukot j\u00e4iv\u00e4t nalkkiin veneen eri  puolille. Saukkojen \u00e4\u00e4ntely on voimakasta ja vaikkei sen sanomaa voi  tietysti tajutakaan, vaistonvaraisesti ymm\u00e4rsi ett\u00e4 ne olivat h\u00e4diss\u00e4\u00e4n.  Ryhm\u00e4n integriteetti\u00e4 oli uhattu.<br><br>Valokuvaajalle huudettiin  useasta muustakin veneest\u00e4, mutta tyypin ilme ei v\u00e4r\u00e4ht\u00e4nytk\u00e4\u00e4n.  Puistattavaa. H\u00e4n voi tietysti aina sanoa, ett\u00e4 so what, h\u00e4n vaan kuvaa  ja venett\u00e4 hoitaa joku muu, niin kuin tekikin. Isoin syytt\u00e4v\u00e4 sormi  osoittaa firmaan, mutta kyll\u00e4 kuvaajallakin oli osansa. H\u00e4n olisi voinut  kielt\u00e4\u00e4 moisen toiminnan.<br><br>Luontomatkailussa on aina mukana  nurja puoli. Sit\u00e4 pit\u00e4\u00e4 yritt\u00e4\u00e4 minimoida, ei maksimoida. Toivottavasti  kukaan ei osta n\u00e4it\u00e4 valokuvia, on \u00e4\u00e4rihurskas toive. Firman nimen voi  aina yritt\u00e4\u00e4 nostaa kuivumaan, mutta kuvaajasta ei ole tietoa.<br><br>Jaguaareja? Kyll\u00e4! 4,5 vuorokauden ja 35 tunnin (5 tuntia j\u00e4ljell\u00e4)  jokikruisailun tuloksena on muisti-, valo- ja videokuvaa yhdeks\u00e4st\u00e4 eri  jaguaarista. Se on vajaa kolmasosa siit\u00e4 kissapopulaatiosta, jonka  t\u00e4k\u00e4l\u00e4iset tunnistavat, l\u00e4hinn\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4n t\u00e4plityksen perusteella. <br><br>Ensimm\u00e4inen vaikutelma: aika paksu jaguaariksi. Tanakka. Kaunis el\u00e4in!  Kellert\u00e4v\u00e4 pohjav\u00e4ri. Vartalon kuviot tuovat mieleen Barcelonan  korttelirakenteen ilmasta katsottuna; kaupungin matkamuistoista tuttu.  P\u00e4\u00e4, jalat ja vatsa t\u00e4pl\u00e4isi\u00e4, h\u00e4nn\u00e4ss\u00e4 paljon mustaa. Iso p\u00e4\u00e4. <br><br>Er\u00e4\u00e4t tahot v\u00e4itt\u00e4v\u00e4t, ett\u00e4 jaguaareja sy\u00f6tet\u00e4\u00e4n t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4. Ett\u00e4 niit\u00e4 ei  muuten olisi n\u00e4in paljon ja useimmiten &#8220;hot spoteissa&#8221;, tiettyjen  Cuiab\u00e1-joen sivuhaarojen yl\u00e4juoksulla. Toiset tahot sanovat ett\u00e4  bullshit. Oma vaatimaton vaikutelmani on, ett\u00e4 ei sy\u00f6tet\u00e4. Jokainen  n\u00e4ytt\u00e4ytyminen on ollut erilainen ja eri paikassa. Kolme kertaa jaguaari  on ollut mets\u00e4st\u00e4m\u00e4ss\u00e4, k\u00e4vellyt tarmokkaasti rantapenkkaa eteenp\u00e4in.  Kahdessa n\u00e4ist\u00e4 se sai lopulta kiinni kaimaanin &#8211; mik\u00e4 ei liene vaikea  homma, mutta riskins\u00e4 saattaa siin\u00e4kin olla. Muut kissat ovat  torkkuneet, istuskelleet, k\u00e4veleskelleet.<br><br>Muita nis\u00e4kk\u00e4it\u00e4  onkin sitten v\u00e4hemm\u00e4n t\u00e4ss\u00e4 osassa Pantanalia. Mustia m\u00f6lyapinoita  (tyypillist\u00e4 nimipolitiikkaa, sill\u00e4 vain koiras on musta, naaras on  t\u00e4ysin vaalea) on n\u00e4kynyt muutamia. Tapiiri on harvinainen toisin kuin  Etel\u00e4-Pantanalin puolella. Siell\u00e4 me n\u00e4imme kolme, kaikki puolen tunnin  sis\u00e4\u00e4n.<br><br>Yksi iltakeikka j\u00e4ljell\u00e4, pari tuntia huomisaamuna.  Sitten takaisin Porto Jofreen, Transpantanalia jonkun matkaa ja  y\u00f6pyminen SouthWild-firman lodgessa. Mutta se onkin sitten jo aivan  toinen juttu.<br><br>Vamos! <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>23.8 Tweets<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I stand corrected about (at least) two things about jaguars. First, the  one that our crew found, has the name Bianca, not Patricia.  Secondly, the number of identified cats THIS YEAR is 20+. Over the years, they&#8217;ve recognized up to 80.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Two hours of Transpantaneira towards Pocon\u00e9, sitting up on an open truck, is a multi-sense experience.  There is not much traffic but every vehicle produces a frightening, yellowish cloud of dust that lasts a small eternity.  Patience is Oscar&#8217;s 2nd name. He arrived from Peru by bus. &#8220;Three days&#8221;,  he shouts over the wind, flashing a wide but narrow smile.  A stereotypic Finn isn&#8217;t a cocktail party hot-shot, but I&#8217;m sure Oscar could stay silent for weeks.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Our 2 ppl (hobby) filming team is a toy project compared to what Oscar has been contributing to.  In 2012, Luc Jacquet (eg &#8216;March of the Penguins&#8217;) filmed &#8216;Il \u00e9tait une for\u00eat&#8217; in Peru. Oscar &amp; co took part in pre-production.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Back in the land of gates. Wandering on dry land of Pantanal means that  you frequently depart one cow pasture and arrive in another.   <br>SouthWild Pantanal Lodge along the Pixaim River is a former cattle ranch,  now a relaxed overnight hotel. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At 5:15 you wake up to a peculiar sound. Like after heavy rain, when  wather is still pouring out of drainpipes in irregular splashes.  A herd of capybaras is munching grass in front of the cabin. Fresh, muddy footprints on the pale concrete terrace floor. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>28.8 Tweets<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Along rivers, you often see jabirus standing alone on the shore.  A tall, long-legged, silent figure. Body wrapped in a big white cape, it stands still.  <br>The black head continues as a black peak. Vis-\u00e0-vis body, the structure makes jabiru a muscular eighth note.  I try to avoid anthropomorphism, but a lone jabiru, staring at horizon, is a character from an Ingmar Bergman film. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Many young jabirus grow up in an almost uninterrupted, loud chatter of Monk Parakeets.  These middle-sized parrots like to build their community dwellings underneath jabiru&#8217;s bulgy nest. The roof part they can skip. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Jabiru families are in different stages. Many nests are occupied &amp; repaired but without any sign yet of incubation activity.  In quite many other nests, hairy juveniles (often 2) half the size of an adult. Their bill looks like carved from old driftwood.  An iconic bird &#8211; closely followed by the Toco toucan &#8211; jabiru waits for you already at international airports.  Looking for a wooden jabiru with cool, dark sunglasses? Or a guitar playing jaguar? No problem. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The rainy season is approaching. Dryness cannot get much drier, hot hotter. On Tuesday afternoon, thermometer hits 37\u00b0C.  Farmers have already started seasonal burnings. Sunsets are extra-red and smoky. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For a reason only known by the two Tegu lizards themselves, they walk  around the yard of Pouso Alegre Lodge only counterclockwise.  The older one has a broken tail. Despite this, the ranking order is clear: age rules. Depends on whom you ask, of course.  Tegu looks like a hybrid of iguana and monitor lizard. Iguana&#8217;s flshy neck. Body and walking style of monitor.  <br>They are at the right place. The owner, Luiz Vicente Campos, is a part-time herpetologist.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8220;But nowadayz, no time to anything&#8221;. His English is perfect, decorated with the musical s&#8217;s of local Portuguese.  In a 6-yr research project at the lodge, they&#8217;ve listed 40 species of snakes.  &#8220;When we started, I was aware of 15. My guess is we&#8217;ll find 50.&#8221;  Luiz himself has done field work by traps: a few meter of green net strategically placed on the ground leads to a plastic can.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The only snake so far: a motionless Yellow-tailed Cribo, eye-level, on top of vegetation on Cuiab\u00e1 River. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Wasp nests can be perplexingly elaborate. 30 min walking distance from the lodge, ~3 m up on a tree trunk, was one such.  This one was not yet finished but the shape was there already: <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/en.m.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Synoeca\" target=\"_blank\">Synoeca<\/a> Big, dark, elegant wasps.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A group of 5+ Long-tailed Marmosets in an island of dry forest.  Fur&amp;tail in much better shape than on those in Cuiab\u00e1. Which is nice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Lodges w\/ all the food are lucrative for wildlife, and ppl love to see animals. We too. But there&#8217;s a tradeoff.  &#8220;Coatis, they are worst.&#8221; Danilo Kluyber shakes his head. He works as a  vet in the Giant Armadillo Project. &#8220;Teeth like chisels.&#8221;  All is well as long as food is served as usual. But if not, the cuddly South American Coati can turn mean. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>29.8 Tweets<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"900\" src=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/moth.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-853\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/moth.jpg 600w, https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/moth-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Insect life has been quiet. This one was up on the wall during lunch time.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The Bare-faced Curassow is &#8220;shy in most areas, but due to reduced hunting pressure now much tamer along Transpantaneira.&#8221; True.  The 1st thing we see when we sign in to Araras Eco Lodge at noon: 3  curassow&#8217;s (female, 2 males) wander in the outdoor lunch area.  Several Chaco Chachalacas and Purplish Jays plus countless Yellow-billed Cardinals are present, too.  In a man-made multi-level fountain, a Narrow-billed Woodcreeper takes a  bath by first dipping its tail. Sayaca Tanager just drinks.  So much avian fauna so close to food keeps staff busy. Every item has to be under cover, and cleaning takes time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>30.8 Tweets<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A Brown Capuchin Monkey takes a firm position, and bangs a palm nut four times against a thick horizontal branch.  It is left-handed. Two more vigorous hits, and the nut cracks open. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Do you see gray, 1-2 m tall, pointy or tombstone kind of termite mounds? If yes, you&#8217;re in the Northern Pantanal.  If mounds are of reddish soil, max 1 m tall, and of roundish shape like blown inside, that&#8217;s the South style.  Point anyone in S\/N at this or other difference that a tourist notices, and you&#8217;ll hear:&#8221;Oh, but we do have them here also!&#8221;  In S you&#8217;ll see Burrowing Owls, Red-legged Seriemas and armadillos, not in the N.  Maybe soil in S is more sandy, easier to dig, and more of clay in N? &#8220;No  no, we have sandy areas here too&#8221;, Luiz&#8217;s answer is quick.  &#8220;There were armadillos when I waz a child. More flooding here I suppose.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8220;We are like the UN here. So many nationalities. Nice!&#8221; An explosive laughter cuts the soundscape of the A\/C&#8217;ed dining room.  Like all ranch\/lodge owners we&#8217;ve met on this trip, also Andre Thuronyi  spends quite some time w\/ his guests, especially the meals.  The size of his property, Araras Ecolodge, divided by Transplantaneira in two slices, is 1\/10 of that of Baia das Pedras.  Faded jeans, loose white shirt, wild hair, barefoot. Thuronyi&#8217;s slim figure is that of a well-matured rock star.  &#8220;I don&#8217;t speak Hungarian&#8221;, he says. Over a plate of grilled fish, mashed  pumpkin, rice, beans &amp; salad, few words on Uralic languages. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Looking back, It was the &#8220;tittarfilm&#8221; competition of SVT Natur about 10 years ago that made me aware of Pantanal.  I wonder what places here the lucky winner visited, and what they were like.  I didn&#8217;t know how much is not known. Take savanna, for instance. Preservation today is a Q of attention value. It&#8217;s been said that savannas and dry forests are far less glamorous ecosystems than rainforests, which is probably true.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After few weeks in Brazil, I cannot get rid of the silly feeling that all of this is some film by Werner Herzog.  The spirit of adventure and unexplored wilderness is there.  Yet, Brazil is a booming industrial nation with e.g. car manufacturing. VW 4&#215;4 is a common sight. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At the overnight hotel in Campo Grande, I flipped through the TV channels.  You know you are in an agricultural power land when you switch over to Canal Rural.  The channel is owned by JBS S.A., a food processing giant.  <br>In the program that was on, a slideshow was presented, visualizing some statistics.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Days with the same, previously unknown, private naturalist guide follow roughly the Hype Cycle.  With Aynore, we are now on the Plateau of Productivity.  BTW, I&#8217;ve no idea if guides in turn experience mood changes towards their clients. Guiding is their job, after all.  Of all guides I&#8217;ve met, Aynore is among the most pro ones. Specialized in birds, but tracking mammals belongs to his assets too. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Frankly, I didn&#8217;t realize that Pantanal would be this hot. Yesterday 40\u00b0C. Today, at least the same.  Rainforests stay cool-ish. Open land like this, not. During the night, temperature drops slowly to 25 or so.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>1.9<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed-flickr wp-block-embed is-type-photo is-provider-flickr\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/flickr.com\/photos\/dadaa\/14960155529\/in\/album-72157647273677245\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/live.staticflickr.com\/3860\/14960155529_dcf721a867_n.jpg\" alt=\"P1080507\" width=\"320\" height=\"240\" \/><\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Place: <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/araras.ecolodge\/\">Araras Eco Lodge, Pantanal, Brazil<\/a> (-16.512013551896, -56.711254119873)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Address: Rodovia Transpantaneira, km 32, 78175-000 Pocon\u00e9, MT, Brazil<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kello on 5:30. Hetki, jolloin ei ole en\u00e4\u00e4 pime\u00e4\u00e4 mutta valostakaan ei voi viel\u00e4 puhua. Aurinko nousee kuuden maissa. <br><br>Betonisen k\u00e4velytien mutkassa seisoo Aynore Soares. H\u00e4net erottaa juuri  ja juuri. &#8220;Had a good rest?&#8221; Tummasta hahmosta irtoaa k\u00e4si. Se  heilahtaa kohti Araras Ecolodgen pihan nurkasta alkavaa pitk\u00e4\u00e4 puista  k\u00e4velysiltaa. &#8220;This way. Let&#8217;s go.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Jos joku on t\u00e4sm\u00e4llinen  liikkeiss\u00e4\u00e4n, se on Aynore. Kun valoa tulee muutama lumen lis\u00e4\u00e4, n\u00e4kee  mit\u00e4 h\u00e4nell\u00e4 on yll\u00e4\u00e4n. Eik\u00e4 se olekaan mik\u00e4 tahansa lenkkeilyasu vaan  t\u00e4ydellinen sotisopa jolla villi luonto otetaan haltuun. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Farkut; maastokeng\u00e4t; vihre\u00e4 kauluspaita hihat viikattuna hauiksen  alapuolelle; maastokuvioinen lierihattu ny\u00f6ri kire\u00e4n\u00e4 takaraivon  kohouman alla; harun lierin p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 aurinkolasit; harmaat liivit, joiden  etumuksessa on useita erikokoisia, l\u00e4p\u00e4llisi\u00e4 taskuja v\u00e4lineille joita  en osaa kuvitellakaan saati selostaa; henkselit, joilla maastokuvioitu  kiikari pysyy heilumatta rintalastan p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4; lanteilla vihre\u00e4 vy\u00f6, josta  roikkuu, vartalon eri puolilla, viidakkoveitsikotelo ja musta vy\u00f6laukku  (jossa laserosoitin ja MP3-soitin linnun\u00e4\u00e4nineen), molemmat  ny\u00f6ritettyn\u00e4 reiden ymp\u00e4ri etteiv\u00e4t ne hakkaa k\u00e4velless\u00e4 reitt\u00e4 vasten;  housunkauluksessa, takataskun seutuvilla, klipill\u00e4 radiopuhelin; sel\u00e4ss\u00e4  iso reppu jonka painoa jakaa rinnan yli kiinnitetty hihna; k\u00e4dess\u00e4  monopodi kameralle.<br><br>Aynore k\u00e4velee hallitun ripe\u00e4sti ja  tasapainoisesti, selk\u00e4 suorana, kyyn\u00e4rp\u00e4\u00e4t hieman koholla. K\u00e4\u00e4ntelee  samalla p\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n puolelta toiselle ja skannaa tiukasti ymp\u00e4rist\u00f6\u00e4 kapean  lierin alta.<br><br>Reilut 180 sentti\u00e4 urheilullista, parrans\u00e4nkist\u00e4,  tummasilm\u00e4ist\u00e4, matala\u00e4\u00e4nist\u00e4, noin kolmekymppist\u00e4 brasilialaista  miest\u00e4. Ei ole vaikea kuvitella elokuvaa\/peli\u00e4\/kirjaa\/leluvalikoimaa,  jossa h\u00e4nenlaisensa eco-warrior taistelee hyvien puolella ahneita  luonnontuhoajapahiksia vastaan.<br><br>&#8220;Excuse me, I have to take my  medicine&#8221;. Aynore poistuu illallisp\u00f6yd\u00e4st\u00e4 varhain. Sen ajan mink\u00e4 h\u00e4n  p\u00f6yd\u00e4ss\u00e4 viett\u00e4\u00e4, h\u00e4n on hiljaa ja sy\u00f6 nopeasti.<br><br>Viel\u00e4 joitakin  vuosia sitten t\u00e4m\u00e4 luonto-oppaamme oli lupaava ratsastuksenopettaja. &#8220;I  have been riding horses since I was four&#8221;, kertoo h\u00e4nen  LinkedIn-profiilinsa. Sitten, onnettomuus. Mik\u00e4, sit\u00e4 h\u00e4n ei ole  tarkentanut emmek\u00e4 ole viitsineet udella enemp\u00e4\u00e4. Veikkauksia: hevosen  sel\u00e4st\u00e4 putoaminen, hevosen potku, autokolari. Oli mik\u00e4 oli, leukaluu  murtui. &#8220;Eating hurts.&#8221;<br><br>Naurettavuuden rajoja hipovan t\u00e4sm\u00e4varustelun selitt\u00e4\u00e4 nelj\u00e4 vuotta armeijan palveluksessa. <br><br>Matkan kolme luonto-opasta (Stefan, Oscar, Aynore) olivat kaikki  erikoistuneet lintuihin, mit\u00e4 emme olleet suinkaan toivoneet. Linnut  ovat jees ja niit\u00e4 on helppo seurata, mutta luonto on niin paljon  enemm\u00e4n kuin ne. Hyv\u00e4t yleisluonto-oppaat ovat harvassa. Erikoistumisen  ymm\u00e4rt\u00e4\u00e4 kun n\u00e4kee, miten isoimmat rahat liikkuvat juurikin  lintuturismissa, edelleen. Voisin joskus avautua t\u00e4st\u00e4 asiasta  enemm\u00e4nkin mutta en nyt, viimeisen\u00e4 p\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4 Pantanalissa. <br><br>Stefan on ainoa tapaamani ihminen, jolla on kolmen maan passi: Brasilia,  USA ja Hollanti. &#8220;That&#8217;s difficult to say&#8221;, h\u00e4n nauroi kun ensi kertaa  kysyin mist\u00e4 h\u00e4n on kotoisin. Syntynyt Rio de Janeirossa, \u00e4iti  Kaliforniasta, is\u00e4 Hollannista. Vuoden ik\u00e4isen\u00e4 Englantiin, jossa asui  n. 30 vuotta. Kielitieteen yliopisto-opinnot Edinburgissa, Skotlannissa.  Ala-asteen opettajana. Viimeiset viisi vuotta Brasiliassa, Pantanalin  tiet\u00e4mill\u00e4. Is\u00e4ll\u00e4 oli siel\u00e4 karjatila, joka harjoitti my\u00f6s  luontomatkailua. Yleinen konsepti t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4. Itseoppinut freelancer  luonto-opas, jonka kanssa oli mukava jutella mist\u00e4 vaan mm. koska  englanti.<br><br>Huomenna kamat kassiin, aamulla pari tuntia autolla Cuiab\u00e1an ja sielt\u00e4 sitten lentokentt\u00e4hyppelyll\u00e4 lopulta Helsinki-Vantaalle.<br><br>Jo on aikakin. P\u00e4iv\u00e4 p\u00e4iv\u00e4lt\u00e4 kuumempaa ja kuivempaa. Ei jaksa k\u00e4vell\u00e4, ja suolainen hiki valuu silmiin. <br><br>T\u00e4\u00e4 Pantanal on niin n\u00e4hty. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>2.9. Tweets<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Marshy area at the back of the lodge. From there, repeated whines of an immature Black-collared Hawk. Mom isn&#8217;t much bigger.  Similar family scenes 1: A couple of Plumbeous Ibis feeds their twins. Long decurved bills mean laborious I\/O syncing.  2: The immature Southern Crested Caracara is still a crybaby. When a frog escapes, the wanna-be mighty predator starts to weep. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This. Cuiab\u00e1 River just after sunset. First big bats fly around the  boat, near water. Sky, still bright, shines through their wings.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Julkaistu alun perin Facebookissa ja Twitteriss\u00e4. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 versiossa poistettu toimimattomia linkkej\u00e4 yms. 9.8 Place: Hotel Fazenda Baia das Pedras (-19.2568653384, -55.7862468326) Address: Campo Grande, MS, Brazil Aamup\u00e4iv\u00e4n autokierros sill\u00e4 osaa tiluksia, joka on tulvan alla. &#8220;This is the fourth year when rainy season and dry season are kind of mixed&#8221;, sanoo luonto-opas Stefan joka tuli &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/?p=845\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Brasilia, Pantanal 2014<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[146],"tags":[130,131,132],"class_list":["post-845","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-travel","tag-brasilia","tag-pantanal","tag-travel"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/845","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=845"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/845\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":909,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/845\/revisions\/909"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=845"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=845"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=845"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}