{"id":878,"date":"2022-10-31T20:51:56","date_gmt":"2022-10-31T18:51:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/?p=878"},"modified":"2024-09-20T13:19:18","modified_gmt":"2024-09-20T10:19:18","slug":"costa-rica-2017","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/?p=878","title":{"rendered":"Costa Rica 2017"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\n\"Green<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jan 28, 2017 <\/a>Green and black poison dart frog by the Camino Experimental Norte, La Selva Biological Station.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 28, 2017 <\/a>The previous time here was in April 2013. If you are interested, read tweets from my archive https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/2022\/10\/costa-rica-2013\/<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 28, 2017 <\/a>La Selva is shipshape. New signs, kitchen renovated, tasty meals, ultra speed laundry service.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 28, 2017<\/a> Yahaira, the guide, comments on Otto, the southernmost hurricane on record to hit C America: “No big deal here” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 29, 2017<\/a> What La Selva cannot do is noice-cancel Sarapiqui traffic. \ud83d\ude9b & \ud83c\udfcdgain more horsepower. Airplanes roar over \ud83c\udf4cfields, spraying pesticide.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 29, 2017<\/a> It is silent only during wee hours. Luckily, that coincides with owls calling. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 29, 2017<\/a> On the 23rd, 2-4am, a Mottled owl near the family house 3. On two subsequent nights after that, the popping call of a Spectacled owl. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 29, 2017<\/a> Toucans (both Yellow-throated and Keel-billed), Collared aracaris, Rufous motmots, Slaty-tailed trogons, and Great tinamous are aplenty. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 29, 2017<\/a> During the last 7 days, several Swedish birding groups have been unloaded from the archetypal Costa Rican tourist vehicle, a white minivan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jan 29, 2017 <\/a>Later on this trip, a revisit to Mirador de Quetzales. In Jan2004, s\/he was there (quetzals too). At that time, Jorge was the manager. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 29, 2017<\/a> The page of La Selva mammals lists 4 species of primates.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 29, 2017<\/a> However, Aotus lemurinus (Gray-bellied night monkey) has been seen here only 3 times, all in the 80’s. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 29, 2017<\/a> The only time I’ve seen a night monkey species was in Oct 2007 in Peru. Few huddled together above the boat dock of Sandoval Lake Lodge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 29, 2017<\/a> Smallish groups of howler monkeys are common at La Selva and many of them stay near the station.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 29, 2017<\/a> By contrast, in 7 days, only 3-4 busy spider monkeys, and a single capuchin. Lack of fruit trees? For howlers, there are always leaves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017 <\/a>Initially, after La Selva, the plan was to spend 4 nights at the Sirena station in Corcovado NP, where wildlife watching is at its best.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017<\/a> But things have changed since the last time there (April 2007). In Costa Rica too, there are new financing models for public services. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017<\/a> The station is now run (at least for three years) by an Osa Peninsula -based community organization, ADI.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017<\/a> This has brought a number of visible improvements, e.g. facilities have been renovated. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017<\/a> Earlier, eating was a slightly austere operation in a cantine. Now there’s a new restaurant where you can pay with a credit card. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017<\/a> The old plain, wooden platform for tents and hammocks is extended, and furnished with mosquito net hooded two-storey beds to rent. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017<\/a> On the other hand, new regulations are in place (e.g. no own food), and what once was free (e.g. canoeing) carries now a price tag. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017<\/a> However, the most challenging thing for a Costa Rica nature tourist these days is to get an entrance ticket to Sirena to start with. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017<\/a> We were told that a limited amount of tickets is on sale w\/in a narrow time window at a time. This creates two markets for the tickets. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017 <\/a>I guess hotels in the Drake Bay area and leading tour operators make a deal w\/ ADI, and buy tickets in big quantities, just in case.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017 <\/a>Smaller players and independent tourists have to enter the laborious “black” ticket market. Know somebody who might have spare tickets? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017<\/a> In our times when tax funding carries (sadly) a bad reputation, financing national parks and other top nature sites is a tough nut. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jan 31, 2017<\/a> Our contact, a naturalist guide & good friend, failed to get tickets. Alas, no Sirena. Anyway, do (try to) visit Corcovado! It’s a gem. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> If the Caribbean Lowlands featured only one Capuchin monkey, the welcome in the Osa Peninsula on the Pacific side was overwhelming.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> The tiled roof of cabin nr 10 at Copa De Arbol Beach & Rainforest Resort in Drake Bay is enhanced by slabs of corrugated iron. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> Around 5pm when daylight is getting old and tired, a group of a dozen Capuchins heads to their overnight tree top by the beach. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> Their route goes via nr 10. You’re wildly shaken up from the late afternoon doze. What the…falling coconuts? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> It’s peak season. Drake Bay aka Bahia Drake is buzzing with tourists hiking, snorkeling, horseback riding, fishing, pool-dwelling. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> To the cooler spectrum of activities belongs a flight on a superlight, open, helicopter-type thingy. Like two bathtubs chained together. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> Some bring their own toys. On the spacious sandy shore of the nearby Corcovado Adventures Tent Camp, a woman is operating a drone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> After few minutes of tap-tapping, she takes few steps back. Swiftly, the 4 rotors gain full speed, and the white quadcopter takes off. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> At the same time, a V-shaped fleet of twenty Brown pelicans approaches. The vehicle whizzes by, but the birds show no reaction. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> “Just taking some video from the scenery”, she explains in US English. On the tablet, surprisingly sharp live footage. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> “In theory, it can fly up to 6 miles, but batteries may not last that long.” Her aircraft has disappeared from view. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> Two mid-size passenger ships are anchored further away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> National Geographic Sea Lion, “the closest thing to Cousteau\u2019s Calypso\u201d, is on an 8d cruise. Start: Panama.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> The other ship is Star Breeze. On 5 Nov 2005 at 5:50 am, on the coast of Somalia, it was attacked by pirates.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017 <\/a>Here, Star Breeze is on her zigzag cruise along the Pacific coast of Costa Rica.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> The Drake Bay area has also local residents. How many, I don’t know. Often the only witness of their houses in the woods are dogs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 3, 2017<\/a> What’s odd here compared to La Selva, is lack of mosquitoes. La Selva was swarming of them. Here, none, not even in the forest. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"5:51<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Feb 4, 2017<\/a> 5:51 am at Drake Bay Getaway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Feb 4, 2017<\/a> Looking back, one of the unplanned themes of the visit to La Selva was ants. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 4, 2017<\/a> First, the cabin of the latter part of the stay was Zompopa (=ant) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 4, 2017<\/a> Second, on two consecutive days, I was startled to find a Bullet ant walking up on my sleeve. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

 Feb 4, 2017 <\/a>Third, a colony of army ants passed by. This happened twice, both on the same trail, Sendero Tres Rios (STR). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 4, 2017<\/a> Unlike in Corcovado NP where the number one bird family following army ants is antbirds, in La Selva it’s woodcreepers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 4, 2017<\/a> Northern barred-, and Plain-brown were the most numerous species, but few Ruddy woodcreepers were also there. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 4, 2017 <\/a>La Selva’s main trails like STR are 1,5 m wide concrete walkways. They make a good stage to watch the movements of the ant colony. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 4, 2017 <\/a>Part of it flowed in narrow streams (up) while others formed short-lived dense heaps (down). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Feb 6, 2017<\/a> Night of a Half Moon in Drake Bay as seen by Sony RX100 IV. I like this idea by the Drake Bay Getaway to put up hammocks for stargazing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 6, 2017<\/a> Cocoa woodcreeper repeats its song over and over again. On the bay, boats are returning from today’s tours. Drake Bay breaths tourism.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 6, 2017 <\/a>There are no docks. Boats are hooked on a buoy a few 100 m from the shore. In the morning, captains paddle or SUP to their vessels.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 7, 2017<\/a> On top of the steep hill where the cabins of the hotel face the bay in the N, and Corcovado NP in the SE, blooms a balsa tree. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 7, 2017<\/a> The flowers are an animal magnet. Scarlet macaws, Red-legged honeycreepers, Golden-naped woodpeckers, Red-tailed squirrels… <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 7, 2017<\/a> You might think that wildlife is scarce here, far from the NP, but that’s not true. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 7, 2017<\/a> “We have seen tapir footprints”, tells Yens Jimenez Steller, one of the two owners of the lodge, “both those of an adult – and a baby!” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 7, 2017<\/a> Many striking bird species visit the garden, e.g. Orange-collared manakin, Bay-headed and Golden-hooded tanager, and Barred antshrike. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 7, 2017<\/a> Yesterday, down by the lodge’s caf\u00e9\/restaurant, a pair of Slaty-tailed trogons was picking up termites from a nest eye level on a tree. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Feb 8, 2017<\/a> Mirador de Quetzales at Cerro de la Muerte. 2,5 km above sea level.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> As a traveller, I appreciate an active, everyday presence of hotel owners. No big bosses, no “just working here” middle management. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> Of course this does not scale. But if you ask me, time is running out of corporations in tourism anyway. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> Around 20 local people are hired by Drake Bay Getaway but Yens and Patrick are its face and soul. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> I still see them standing there side by side behind the counter, one laptop each, like Kraftwerk. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> They route meals and drinks from kitchen to tables, and chat with guests. The total area of 5×3 m makes it all easy and intimate. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> And when transportation is needed, Patrick starts the legendary red Toyota Land Cruiser (1980) and roars up and down the hill. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> Some of that same authenticity that makes service stand out, is still left also here, at Mirador de Quetzales aka Cabinas Eddie Serrano.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> On the wall, a weathered 1995 article from Costa Rica Today. The then Finca was still new. Eddie Serrano had settled here in 1950. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> Luckily, the deforestation law was soon reverted. Much of Eddie’s beautiful cloud forest is said to be intact even today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> We saw the place in 2002. Eddie was already dead by then, and Jorge, one of his four sons, was in charge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017 <\/a>Jorge is a bit of an artist. After dinner, he carved wooden bird miniatures, explaining characteristics of different species to his son. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> Today, Jorge has his own lodge downhill, Paraiso Quetzal Lodge. Lawns, jacuzzis etc. The lodge seems to draw US overnighters. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> The main attractions of the original Mirador property however, are still the many wild avocado trees, and Resplendent quetzals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> Mirador is now run by the family of Jorge’s brother, Oscar. 2002, there were 8 cabins. Now, 15. But ppl seem to prefer day tours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> If time permits, we might visit Paradise to see if Jorge is present. His dry humor, love of nature, and artwork are fond memories. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> At 5:30 am, in your simple wooden cabin, under four blankets, you wake up to cheerful calls of a Rufous-collared sparrow. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> The thermometer shows +8 degrees Celsius. Inside. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> Cloths are damp, feel terrible at first. The 1st night I went to bed w\/ all cloths on. This way, they stayed dry but sleep was patchy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> After few hours, the morning chill is long forgotten. Sunny days are gourgeous. In left, front and right: Talamanca Mountain Range. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> Some time during early afternoon, clouds start creeping in from SW, often accompanied with gusts of wind. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> Clouds feel like aerosol when they surround you. Visibility is zero. Temperature falls sharply. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 9, 2017<\/a> Before the sun sets, clouds slowly depart again. During the night, all heat of the day is sucked up to the clear starry sky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 10, 2017<\/a> The long tail feathers of a male quetzal are a genius adaptation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 10, 2017<\/a> Cloud forest trees are full of moss the size & shape of the quetzal, with some vegetation hanging from it, swaying in the wind. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 11, 2017<\/a> Also, the red of the promeliads is close to that of the quetzal, especially when seen against the sky from below (which is always).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 11, 2017<\/a> So how do you search for a quetzal? One option is to find a wild avocado tree, and wait. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Feb 11, 2017<\/a> Another (better) option is to follow Oscar Serrano and a selection of his dogs on a 6-8 am walk along the 4 km trail in the forest. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 11, 2017<\/a> This time of the year, male quetzals start to show off, so they are relatively easy to film. Females, on the other hand, are shy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 11, 2017<\/a> Higher altitudes in neotropics are home to many hummingbirds species. On Mirador’s list there are half a dozen. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 11, 2017<\/a> To most memorable experience this time up at Mirador de Quetzales is shared between stupefying sunsets, and flocks of Barret parakeets. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 12, 2017<\/a> High up on the sky, in tight formation, a very big flock of birds is approaching at astonishing speed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 12, 2017<\/a> The flock reduces height, and passes you with a loud SWOOSH, almost reaching the sound barrier. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 13, 2017<\/a> The 2,5 hr drive down from Cerro de la Muerte and then NW towards Quepos brings you first to San Isidro del General. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 13, 2017<\/a> Some sources describe it as a “bustling metropolis” which is silly, but San Isidro do emits urban, Latin life that feels compelling. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 13, 2017<\/a> “I have lived my whole life here”. Eric, a twenty-something Morpho Vans driver, wears sunglasses, a smartwatch and impeccable haircut. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 13, 2017<\/a> Near San Isidro del General is Los Cusingos, a home-cum-museum of Alexander Skutch, the father of the first definitive book of Costa Rican birds. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 13, 2017<\/a> ICYMI we were honoured to shake hands with Dr. Skutch there in 2004. He was 99 yro.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 13, 2017<\/a> Anyway, this time the target was further up, one of the few NPs yet to be conquered, Manuel Antonio. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> The last half an hour before Quepos is miles after miles nothing but oil palm plantations, on both sides of a perfectly straight road. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Top 5 Costa Rican export: 1) needles, catheters etc; 2) bananas; 3) pineapples; 4) medical instruments; 5) other food preparations by https:\/\/wits.worldbank.org\/CountryProfile\/en\/Country\/CRI\/Year\/2015\/Summary<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> You can be sure that what you eat is not a whimsical product. The banana handbook comes in two volumes: theory, and praxis. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Manuel Antonio is small and extremely crowded, but thanks to the top-notch guiding by Johan Chaves, the 7-12 tour was very good. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Some highlights: Helmeted iguana, Common potoo (two), Lesser nighthawk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Crowdedness was partly due to Sunday, and the fact that Star Breeze (familiar from Drake Bay) was in town. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017 <\/a>The picturesque beaches of the park are famous, accessible via the park itself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Big groups of busy cruise guests, local families on their way to the beach with ice coolers – a bit confusing and noisy, but vibrant. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> At the park entrance, the toilets are closed, wrapped w\/ a yellow tape. Johan looks worried. “They have given only 3 days to fix this.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> The septic tank system is broken. Few portable toilets acts as a substitute. “In the worst scenario, authorities close the park.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> “But three days is not enough. Now they have appealed for deadline extension.” In peak season, closing the park would be a catastrophe. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> There is also another looming problem in Manuel Antonio, both in the park and in local hotel gardens: Capuchin monkeys. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Clever and omnivore, Capuchins raid birds’ nests. That happens in the wild too, but these rather closed ecosystems are more vulnerable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Hammock<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Capuchins love hammocks. They hop & swing & play in them. Show me a human who wouldn’t laugh and feel joy watching it all. That’s it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Ecotourism has its own wicked problems. How to find a balance between healthy nature and income is one of them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Johan<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Here, I realized that nature guides benefit a lot from mini tablets. With offline photos and vids they can show & tell so much more. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Breakfast on the balcony of a Tulemar villa. A lowland rainforest species, Chestnut-backed antbird, walks by, singing its 3-tone song. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Despite the secluded property (or perhaps thanks to it), the resort is home to a big number of wild sloths.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Feb 14, 2017<\/a> Today’s sport fishing armadas disappeared to the South [x]. Capuchins arrived [x]. Squirrel monkies too [x]. Luggage closed [x]. \ud83d\udc94 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ilmestynyt alun perin Facebookissa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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21.1 illalla Iberian Boeing laskeutuu hieman t\u00f6ks\u00e4ht\u00e4en Miamin kent\u00e4lle. Ehk\u00e4 miehist\u00f6 oli v\u00e4synyt; lennon viimeiset tunnit alas USA:n it\u00e4rannikkoa olivat jatkuvaa turbulenssia.

Vaikutelmaa kevent\u00e4\u00e4 kaiuttimista virtaava John Lennonin, Plastic Ono Bandin ja Harlem Community Choir’in

“And so happy Christmas \/ For black and for white \/ For yellow and red ones \/ Let’s stop all the fight”

Vai oliko musiikkivalinta sittenkin lentoyhti\u00f6n puolisarkastinen ennuste alkaneelle vuodelle?

Muuten, en ole koskaan kuu(nne)llut sinkun b-puolta “Listen, the snow is falling”. Oletteko te?

Liput oli ostettu Finnairin lennolle, mutta kun check in -aika raksahti k\u00e4yntiin, tulleessa viestiss\u00e4 oli maininta, ett\u00e4 Miamin reitti lennet\u00e4\u00e4n koko kev\u00e4\u00e4n Iberian koneilla. T\u00e4m\u00e4n katsottiin olevan sen verran j\u00e4re\u00e4 muutos, ett\u00e4 liput olisi halutessaan voinut peruuttaa ja saada rahat takaisin.

No. Iberia on lent\u00e4nyt ennenkin, kone oli vain pari vuotta vanha ja kielipuolituristeja varten mukana oli varmuuden vuoksi my\u00f6s suomalainen lentoem\u00e4nt\u00e4. Mielenkiintoista kyll\u00e4, kun turbulenssi uhkasi sitoa matkustajat liian pitk\u00e4ksi ajaksi tuoleihinsa, suomeksi annettiin tiedote:

-T\u00e4ll\u00e4 Iberian lennolla teill\u00e4 on mahdollisuus liikkua koneessa, vaikka turvavy\u00f6valo on p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4.

Okei?

Miamista Karibian yli Costa Ricaan.

-The flight will be choppy but we will do our best to fly you safely to San Jos\u00e9. Please relax and enjoy your flight.

T\u00e4m\u00e4 saattoi olla uutta, ovelaa psykologiaa American Airlinesilta. Ei ainuttakaan ilmakuoppaa koko matkalla. Sile\u00e4\u00e4 kuin photoshopattu selfieposki. Matkustajalle j\u00e4i joko se mielikuva, ett\u00e4 ohjaamossa istui henkil\u00f6ilmailuliikenteen paras kokoonpano ikin\u00e4 tai sitten American is simply the best.

Kahdeksas matka t\u00e4h\u00e4n Viron kokoiseen maahan, joka on toistuvasti ykk\u00f6sen\u00e4 niiss\u00e4 ehdottoman tieteellisesti p\u00e4teviss\u00e4 kyselyiss\u00e4, joissa haetaan maailman onnellisinta kansaa.

Eip\u00e4 silti, eiv\u00e4t surveyt ihan pieless\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n ole. Jos nyt verrataan vaikka merentakaiseen naapuriin Haitiin, niin onhan Costan Rican asiat tosi mallikkaasti. S\u00e4\u00e4, esimerkiksi. Aina kun Karibian yli pyyh\u00e4lt\u00e4\u00e4 hirmumyrsky, sill\u00e4 on poikkeuksetta v\u00e4lilasku Haitilla. Viimeisen 50 vuoden aikana Costa Ricaa on koetellut ainoastaan yksi hurrikaani. Se onkin tuore tapaus, marraskuulta 2016.

Costa Rican onni on sijainti. Se on juuri riitt\u00e4v\u00e4n kaukana Atlantin hurrikaanivy\u00f6hykkeelt\u00e4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Marraskuinen Otto vaati muutaman kuolonuhrin Costa Rican pohjoisosassa, l\u00e4hell\u00e4 maan toista kansainv\u00e4list\u00e4 lentokentt\u00e4\u00e4, Liberiaa. Otto m\u00f6kelsi id\u00e4st\u00e4 l\u00e4nteen pitkin pohjoisen rajanaapurin, Nicaraguan, rajaa.

Siit\u00e4 puheenollen, yksi asia Nicaraguasta on helppo n\u00e4hd\u00e4 lentokoneesta: valtava Lake Nicaragua. Etel\u00e4ss\u00e4 se viist\u00e4\u00e4 Costa Rican rajaa, l\u00e4nness\u00e4 j\u00e4rven ja valtameren v\u00e4liss\u00e4 on vain kapea kannas.

Kova Otto-tuuli aiheutti tietysti kaikenlaista ongelmaa yli koko maan.

– It was just awful. We were out of electricity for five days.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Tyynen [sic] valtameren puolella, Osan niemimaalla, Drake Bay -lahden rannalla, alueella josta kirkkaana p\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4 voi kuvitella n\u00e4kev\u00e4ns\u00e4 Panaman rannikon ja melkein n\u00e4keekin, Drake Bay Gateaway Resortin toinen omistaja Yens Jimenez Steller py\u00f6rittelee silmi\u00e4\u00e4n.

– We had to rent a generator!

Yens on niit\u00e4 harvoja, joiden LinkedIn endorsement-lista sis\u00e4lt\u00e4\u00e4 mainesanat Virtualization, Linux ja Honeymoons. H\u00e4n ja partnerinsa Patrick Ludwig muuttivat t\u00e4nne Seattlesta, perustivat Drake Bay’hyn ensin kahvilan ja vuonna 2014 hotellin. Alku on ollut mairitteleva: palkintoja ja taputuksia satelee. En ihmettele. Yens ja Patrick ovat ahkeria ja sosiaalisia ihmisi\u00e4, n\u00e4k\u00f6ala m\u00f6keilt\u00e4 on huima ja ruoka on herkullista.

– The only food that we repeat is the breakfast fruit plate. All others portions are different during your stay.

Erikoista sin\u00e4ns\u00e4, mutta Yens on takaisin kotikulmillaan.

-See that red roof there? That’s the house where my family lived.

Yensin isois\u00e4 muutti t\u00e4nne 1970-luvulla Costa Rican pohjoisosista kasvattamaan karjaa. Vaikka niist\u00e4 ajoista tuntuu olevan vain muutama hassu teinivuosi, t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 se tarkoittaa historiaa, joka ei toistu. Sademets\u00e4\u00e4n l\u00e4hteneille pioneereille jaettiin maata k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6ss\u00e4 ilmaiseksi. Heid\u00e4n katsottiin tekev\u00e4n valtiolle palveluksen kesytt\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 villi luonto ihmisen hy\u00f6tyk\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n.

Hotelli on sustainability-luokan mallioppilas. Ei kertak\u00e4ytt\u00f6tavaraa, ei energiasy\u00f6pp\u00f6\u00e4 ilmastointia, minimivalaistus, l\u00e4hiruokaa jne.

S\u00e4hk\u00f6\u00e4 sin\u00e4ns\u00e4 toki kuluu paljon. Omistajapari itsekin seisoo p\u00e4ivitt\u00e4in tuntikausia ravintolatiskin takana ja n\u00e4pyttelee l\u00e4pp\u00e4ri\u00e4 samalla kun seurustelee asiakkaiden kanssa, kantaa keitti\u00f6luukulle asetetut annokset p\u00f6ytiin, ottaa vastaan smoothie-tilauksia ja suristelee erilaisia kahviannoksia kromatulla masiinalla. Kahvilan lattiaan on asennettu s\u00e4hk\u00f6pistokkeita puolen metrin v\u00e4lein. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kahvin ja mansikoiden suhteen Yens on periaatteen miehi\u00e4.

– We don’t use strawberries.

Yens rytmitt\u00e4\u00e4 nopeaa puhettaan horisontaalisilla, t\u00e4sm\u00e4llisill\u00e4 k\u00e4denliikkeill\u00e4, kyyn\u00e4rp\u00e4\u00e4t l\u00e4hell\u00e4 vartaloa, seisoo ryhdikk\u00e4\u00e4sti, katsekontakti ei hellit\u00e4. Kaikesta huomaa ett\u00e4 h\u00e4n on tehnyt uraa yritysmaailmassa.

Kaikki tuntevat Costa Rican kahvimaana, mutta mansikka on tuntemattomampi suuruus. P\u00e4\u00e4kasvatusalue on Po\u00e1s-tulivuoren rinteet. Kaikkialla on mustalla verkkokankaalla peitettyj\u00e4 kasvitarhoja, ja ohikulkijoille kaupitellaan tien varresta mansikoita kilometrien matkalla. Mansikkamarkkinat l\u00e4pi koko vuoden. Vapise, Suonenjoki!

Jos Yensilt\u00e4 kysyt\u00e4\u00e4n, niin paras kahvi tulee sekin Po\u00e1silta. Hotellissa k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n vain sit\u00e4. Jos oikein keskittyy, kahvissa on havaitsevinaan tuliper\u00e4isen maan rikin aromin.

Syy mansikkaboikottiin ei k\u00e4y t\u00e4ysin selv\u00e4ksi. Arvelen ett\u00e4 taustalla on sek\u00e4 halua erottautua massamarkkinoista ett\u00e4 puolto\u00e4\u00e4ni kahvinviljelyn puolesta ylip\u00e4\u00e4ns\u00e4. Mansikat n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4t vallanneen alaa kahvilta, ja t\u00e4m\u00e4 on pieni maa. Vaikka en asiantuntija olekaan, luulen ett\u00e4 kahvin on tarkoitus p\u00e4rj\u00e4t\u00e4 minimi-interventiolla – samaan tapaan kuin viinik\u00f6ynn\u00f6s – onhan kahvi t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 kotonaan. “Vieraslajina” mansikka taas vaatii jatkuvaa paapomista.

Toisin kuin viimeksi t\u00e4ss\u00e4 maassa (huhtikuussa 2013), wifi\u00e4 on nyt tarjolla about kaikkialla. Hotelleissa my\u00f6s huoneissa\/m\u00f6keiss\u00e4. Ensimm\u00e4isen\u00e4 wifi\u00e4 tarjosi k\u00e4nnykk\u00e4ns\u00e4 hot spotin kautta Morpho Van -taksifirman kuljettaja. Kuten sovittu oli, h\u00e4n odotti meit\u00e4 San Jos\u00e9n kent\u00e4ll\u00e4 Alajuelassa pahvilapun kanssa, ja sitten ajettiin vuorten yli Karibian puolelle, La Selvan biologiselle asemalle. Viikon kuluttua h\u00e4n haki meid\u00e4t takaisin. Seuraavana aamuna 12-paikkaisella koneella etel\u00e4\u00e4n, Osaan.

La Selvan salaateissa oli mansikkalohkoja.

Elintaso on noussut. Kuljettajalla oli Applen \u00e4lykello, auto uusi, mukava ja \u00e4\u00e4net\u00f6n, vuoristotiet hyv\u00e4ss\u00e4 kunnossa.

Kuluneen Osa-viikon piti menn\u00e4 toisin. P\u00e4\u00e4kohde oli Corcovadon kansallispuisto, Sirenan asema. Ei onnistunut, joten oli pakko turvautua plan-B:hen ja varata Drake Bay’sta hotelli nelj\u00e4ksi y\u00f6ksi. Onneksi wifi! Jos kiinnostaa, mik\u00e4 suunnitelmissa m\u00e4tti, niin olen puhunut siit\u00e4 jo tarpeeksi Twitterin puolella. Lyhyesti: sen j\u00e4lkeen kun puiston majoitus- ja ruokailupalvelut ulkoistettiin jokin aika sitten, sinne on ollut todella vaikea saada sis\u00e4\u00e4np\u00e4\u00e4sylippuja. Kenenk\u00e4\u00e4n. Lis\u00e4ksi sinne ei en\u00e4\u00e4 saa vied\u00e4 omia ev\u00e4it\u00e4. Kuten Yens asian ilmaisi:

– We don’t know any more what’s going on!

Viimeksi eilen illalla Drake Bay’n hotelleilla oli ollut yhteiskokous, jossa oli pohdittu painostustoimia. Toivon hartaasti, ett\u00e4 Costa Rica ei mene samaan jekkuun kuin er\u00e4\u00e4t muut maat, joissa kansallispuistot ollaan ajamassa alas, “koska ei ole varaa”.

Rant over.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fregattilintujen aaltosulkufiguurit taivaalla; lahdelle parkattuja veneit\u00e4 siivotaan p\u00e4iv\u00e4n snorklaus-, kalastus-, delfiininkatselu- ja tavarankuljetusretkilt\u00e4; pihan Lantana-suvun kukkapensaissa asioi suklaanruskeap\u00e4isi\u00e4, vihre\u00e4selk\u00e4isi\u00e4, sinivatsaisia (Bay-headed) tangaroita; (Rufus-tailed) kolibrit zingahtelevat viivana pisteest\u00e4 toiseen; ihan kohta (Chestnut-mandibled) tukaanit lent\u00e4v\u00e4t korkeimmille puunoksille ja aloittavat kaikkialle kantautuvan illansuukieunnan.

Mit\u00e4h\u00e4n keitti\u00f6labra on t\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n kehitt\u00e4nyt illalliseksi?
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<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Jan 28, 2017 Green and black poison dart frog by the Camino Experimental Norte, La Selva Biological Station. Jan 28, 2017 The previous time here was in April 2013. If you are interested, read tweets from my archive https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/2022\/10\/costa-rica-2013\/ Jan 28, 2017 La Selva is shipshape. New signs, kitchen renovated, tasty meals, ultra speed laundry service. Jan 28, … Continue reading Costa Rica 2017<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[146],"tags":[138,132],"class_list":["post-878","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-travel","tag-costa-rica","tag-travel"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/878","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=878"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/878\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":941,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/878\/revisions\/941"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=878"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=878"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=878"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}