{"id":891,"date":"2022-11-02T21:35:50","date_gmt":"2022-11-02T19:35:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/?p=891"},"modified":"2024-09-20T13:18:53","modified_gmt":"2024-09-20T10:18:53","slug":"borneo-2016","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/?p=891","title":{"rendered":"Borneo 2016"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> The dominant male Broboscis monkey makes a spectacular jump. The entire foliage of the landing tree shakes and shivers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> To this, his harem produces a short, soft, downward sigh. A unison sign of admire? More like “Take it easy” tells Eric, the guide. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> There are ~20 members in the group. Half a dozen adult females, most of them with a breast-fed, dark-faced baby. Several youngsters. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> The slightly crouched, round-bellied figure of a Broboscis, quietly sitting up on a tree, is surprisingly human.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Proboscis<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> Nature documentaries don’t give justice to the slender limbs and elegant colouring of this primate. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> Big males don a dark brown back. Down by the waistline it switches abruptly to light gray. The same up on the shoulders. A furry vest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> What documentaries modestly frame out is the bright red, constantly erected penis of Broboscis. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> Eric tells how recent research has shown that Broboscis’ diet includes highly toxic leaves that increase the body temperature. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> The theory has it that the penis acts as a cooling mechanism, just like the nose. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> How do females manage then? By urinating frequently, they say. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> The 4 m tall, upright, wooden saltwater crocodile in a Sandakan roundabout was right. Animals of that size swim in Kinabatangan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> Today, downstream Kinabatangan is 100% muslim. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> Earlier, when animism still prevailed, it was a no-no to wash mosquito nets and aluminium utensils in a croc river, tells Eric. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> Not to splash in water was a practical piece of advice, wrapped in religious dogma to make it sink. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2016<\/a> Only three weeks ago, a croc had snapped a man who was net-fishing while standing on the shore. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> The relationship between villagers and elephants is a mixture of healthy mistrust and respect. “They call them nini, grandmother.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> Elephant whereabouts are transmitted via a WhatsApp group. A bigger herd is further up, somewhere midstreams, we hear. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> The Kinabatangan River area is divided btw 10 lots\/villages. Abai Jungle Lodge, one hr boat ride from Sepilok, is in lot 1, Abai.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> Back from the dinner, a medium-sized figure on the shadowy hand rail of the bungalow. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> Slowly, it rotates its head. Ear-tufts, yellow eyes. Buffy fish owl. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> By night, lodge lights attract insects, particularly moths and beetles. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> One night on the porch floor: 25 beetles of the same species. Black, 1 inch, dung beetle like. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> Next morning: 0 beetles. The fish owl had eaten them all. True story, witnessed it grab one. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> During the night, meowing. The owl? No (house cat) but the occasional, 1-2 sec cry in a feline-like pitch, that’s the Buffy fish owl. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> There are troubled waters around Borneo. In the N, the South China Sea; in the NE, the Sulu Sea. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> The Philippines have a “dormant claim” on N Borneo, as a said successor state of Sultanate of Sulu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> The southernmost islands of the Philippines are only 50 km away. Steep, misty silhouettes on the horizon. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> The XL size red bill of a Stork-billed kingfisher looks like lipstick gone crazy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> Within the splendid family of tropical kingfishers, this species stands out also due to its size. Common here. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2016<\/a> “Striking…remarkable” An adult Black-and-red broadbill is hyped also by books. Unforgettable? Dunno yet but oh boy, the colors! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 20, 2016<\/a> Eric (Irix) Rolando has worked 14 years as a guide at S I Tours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 20, 2016<\/a> When BBC was filming here the last time, Eric was one of the guides whose duty was to find the animals. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 20, 2016<\/a> The toughest one was Clouded leopard. How to get one in front of a camera trap? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 20, 2016<\/a> The trick that eventually worked was a rabbit in a cage above the path. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 20, 2016<\/a> The rabbit was fed, so eventually it pooped, the poo landed on the ground, the smell brought the cat, and the camera got the cat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 20, 2016<\/a> “However, BBC’s code of conduct doesn’t allow a bait, so the camera trap footage was not used.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> From Abai, one hour boat drive upstreams on the latte waters of Kinabatangan brings you to lot 2, Sukau village. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Engeri<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> Here, at Sukau Rainforest Lodge, a familiar face: Engeri Stephen Etin Sahya aka Stephen, the father-figure of Sabah naturalist guides. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> In March 2011, we spent 10 d w\/ Stephen at Tabin Wildlife Reserve. The highlight of the visit was a Marbled cat.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> In my early days of nature travels, I wouldn’t have the nerves to see the innards of Gomantong (Black) Cave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> A limestone cave with gothic dimensions, its walls are a tapestry of long-legged centipedes and red cockroaches. Rats skirt by. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> In the animal kingdom, these three rank high on the list of the least adored species. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Cockroaches<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> Cockroach fobia (I had)? This is the place to get rid of it. Nowhere else will you see them so much & so near (mind the hand rail).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> Around, tens of thousands of small swiftlets fly i\/o of the cave while even more numerous bats rest in dark lumps high up. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> The wooden boardwalk is slippery from bird guano, bat droppings, and other unspecified biomaterial delivered from above. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> “They brush it every day”, laughs the guide who escorts us through the cave, pointing to interesting objects with his torch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> When the sun sets at 6, the bats start to fly out. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Wrinkle-lipped<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> They all use the same hole in the ceiling, so when you stand outside watching, it looks as if the hill was emitting smoke.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2016<\/a> Against the evening sky, the puffs of bats linger like a celestial snake. Here and there, a raptor tries its luck. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> 2,5 hr drive from Lahad Datu to Danum Valley. The road was in better condition than in July 2012. Also, more elephant dung.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> “Looks like a lone bull”, says Sayeh and examines the roadside damage including a flattened metal sign. ‘BEWARE OF ELEPHANTS’, maybe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> Four years ago, a few things were different at Borneo Rainforest Lodge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> Now, trees w\/ ripe fruits are much harder to find. Figs -> animals. “One tree is eaten very fast. Mammals, birds…they all come” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> The rainy season has been drier this year. Pro: less mud, fewer leeches & mosquitoes. Con: vegetation a little less lush. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> In February, one of the backbones of the Canopy Walkway, a tall, white-trunk Menggaris tree, was hit by a lightning. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> The tree was damaged, and cut down. To find a replacement is a project of a big scale, in many ways. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> Denny Alouysius is not here atm. We miss him a great deal, but look forward to days w\/ Sayeh. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> Wi-fi has become a scarce resource. Now consumed not only by all guests but also by the staff. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> Back in 2012, every other guest had an e-reader. Now, I’ve seen none. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> Tu-tuk tu-tuk-tuk. In the canopy, a Blue-eared barbet repeats its dry call “with rather mechanical quality” as the book puts it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> In Kinabatangan, early afternoon rain was a norm. Here, you cannot be sure when it falls. But fall it will. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> 6 PM down by the Danum River. Thunder still far, but clouds are already present, looking suspicious. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> In a grandiosely loose formation, a fleet of a dozen Rhinocerous hornbills. One by one, they land on a tree by the shore. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> \ud83d\udd62 Time to turn on the lights, and step into the jungle. \ud83d\udd56 First\u26a1\ufe0fand then \u26c8 until past midnight. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> Next morning. A wet, hungry and alert Barred eagle-owl in the mid-storey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Barred<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> Compared to our eagle-owl, this one is half the size. Horizontal ear-tufts like eye-brows. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> In daylight, pupils are big, black, bottomless. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> “We don’t see this species every month”, says Sayeh, “so some birding groups leave a bit disappointed.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> Rain has given an extra boost to Danum. Sound is deeper, rapids livelier. Waves are licking the outskirts of the lodge helipad. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> A 2 m long Monitor lizard steps into the water, swims deeper, switches to a rigid log mode, and drifts down the river.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> In the far corner of the area where the houses of staff & researchers are, behind the football field, grows a durian tree. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Bornean<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> On the second lowest branch, leaning sideways against the trunk, sits a male orangutan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> In the left hand he holds a spiky, half-eaten, unripe durian fruit. Green outside, pure white inside. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2016<\/a> The right hand is around the trunk. In the right foot, the orangutan grips another fruit. He is prepared. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 28, 2016<\/a> An audible CRUNCH. Jaws chew. Slowly, a white lump emerges from between the lips. Without much further ado, the lump drops. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

ul 28, 2016 <\/a>Orangutans appear slow but they move effectively. One swing, and the all-reddish-brown animal is out of sight inside all the green. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 28, 2016<\/a> “They are a bit shy”, Sayah whispers. Orangutans try to avoid facing a lens. Few secs is OK, more not so. They just turn around. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2016<\/a> The fig tree trembles. It’s 7 pm, and yet another night walk around the premises to find a Slow loris.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2016<\/a> Loris stays low, in few meters, and the eye shine is big and steady. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2016<\/a> In the flashlight, a black furry head with long white whiskers, small round ears edged with white. Like an arborean seal. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Filming<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2016<\/a> First, the Binturong just stares the light, temporary blinded, but soon hunger wins. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Binturong<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2016<\/a> Thanks to its prehensile, muscular tail, this “largest living species of the Viverridae” reaches figs on the tip of the branches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2016<\/a> Later that night, a lone upright figure on a stone by the shore of the Danum River. Motionless, watchful. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2016<\/a> Buffy fish owl is fishing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ilmestynyt alun perin Facebookissa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Eric “Irix” Rolando on yksi S I Toursin oppaita. Neliss\u00e4kymmeniss\u00e4, perheess\u00e4 vaimo ja kolme poikaa. Korrekti, fiksun oloinen, englanti erinomainen. Takana 14 vuotta luonto-opastusta Sabahissa, Malesian Borneon pohjoisessa maakunnassa.

Irix on sabahilainen tribaalinimi. Eric on annettu my\u00f6hemmin, koului\u00e4ss\u00e4. K\u00e4ytt\u00f6kelpoisempi yleisnimi.

“Yes, I have googled”, h\u00e4n vastaa nopeasti kun ryhdymme vihjaamaan k\u00e4ytt\u00f6j\u00e4rjestelmist\u00e4 ja Silicon Graphicsista. Emme taida olla ensimm\u00e4iset n\u00f6rttituristit.

Ensimm\u00e4isi\u00e4 h\u00e4nen tapaamiaan suomalaisiakaan emme ole. Olympia j\u00e4rjest\u00e4\u00e4 t\u00e4nne seuramatkoja. Viimeksi v\u00e4ke\u00e4 oli ollut Oulusta. “I respect your citizens. There was a man without legs. We had arranged four people to assist him but he said No, thank you. He even did tough trecking.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kinabatangan-joki kiemurtelee – kaikkien jokien oletusverbi – lounais-koillissuunnassa halki it\u00e4isen Sabahin ja lopulta pullauttaa ruskean lattekahvivetens\u00e4 Sulu-mereen. Matkalla on kymmenen kyl\u00e4\u00e4, jotka on k\u00e4tev\u00e4sti paitsi nimetty my\u00f6s numeroitu juoksevasti eli asiayhteyteen sopivalla tavalla. Alajuoksusta p\u00e4in aloitetaan, 1-10.

Virran mukana kulkee paksulehtisi\u00e4 vesikasveja lauttoina. Niiss\u00e4 paikoissa miss\u00e4 lautat sattuvat pys\u00e4htym\u00e4\u00e4n, alkaa saman tien juurtumisoperaatio. Tehokkainta se on kuroumaj\u00e4rviss\u00e4 (oxbow lake), jotka kasvavat hissukseen umpeen.

“All of these are introduced domestic plants gone wild”, sanoo Eric ja putsaa kiikareitaan.

Swarovski sponsoroi S I Toursia niin kuin monia muitakin luontomatkailutoimistoja. Yrityksen webisivulla l\u00e4hes jokainen opas on kuvattu hymyilev\u00e4n\u00e4, vihre\u00e4t Swarot kaulalla. Sama rintakuvaformaatti, sama paita, sama tausta. Kuin futaajilla ik\u00e4\u00e4n. Eric on niit\u00e4 joilla ei Swaroja ole, ja ehk\u00e4 siksi valmistajan merkki onkin j\u00e4tetty kouran sis\u00e4\u00e4n, n\u00e4kym\u00e4tt\u00f6miin.

Ericiss\u00e4 on tekniikkafriikin piirteit\u00e4. Kiikarit; kaukoputki jonka okulaarin eteen on viritetty pokkarikamera; j\u00e4rkk\u00e4ri; Samsungin \u00e4lypuhelin; putsauskalusto uutta mallia; tukeva reppu.

Tavaralla on hintansa, mutta luonto-oppaat tienaavat kohtuullisen hyvin kaikkialla. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Abai Jungle Lodge on tunnin venematkan p\u00e4\u00e4ss\u00e4 Sepilokista, jossa S I Toursin p\u00e4\u00e4maja sijaitsee. Maja on sik\u00e4li v\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4 termi, ett\u00e4 tilat ovat veden p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4, paalujen varassa seisovalla laiturimaisella rakennelmalla, jolle en tied\u00e4 suomenkielist\u00e4 sanaa. Jetty englanniksi. Sokkeloinen rykelm\u00e4 asumuksia ja yrityksi\u00e4. Julkinen ja yksityinen lomittuvat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

“This is the oldest water village in Sepilok”, kertoo Eric ja esittelee miten bisneksen kasvu n\u00e4kyy konkreettisesti. “See that small room there? That’s where it started.” Nyt yrityksell\u00e4 (joka on samalla toimitusjohtajan koti) on oma telakka erikokoisille moottoriveneille, huoltotilat, keitti\u00f6, hulppea ruokala, punttisali, privaattitilat – ja pienen l\u00e4tk\u00e4kaukalon kokoinen ja n\u00e4k\u00f6inen allas puolillaan vett\u00e4.

Vett\u00e4 sotketaan jatkuvasti parin kevyen luokan per\u00e4moottorin antamalla energialla.

Altaassa ui laiskan oloisesti puoli tusinaa arapaimaa, maailman suurinta makean veden kalaa. Kuin miniatyyrikoon sukellusveneit\u00e4. Komeasti punaisena v\u00e4lkehtiv\u00e4, helttamainen pyrst\u00f6, jota kala liikuttaa elegantin laiskasti sivuttain kuin krokotiili. Omintakeinen tylpp\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4.

Arapaima on Etel\u00e4-Amerikan lahja maailmalle. L\u00e4hes loppuun kalastettu, sekin. Guyanan matkalla meille kerrottiin, ett\u00e4 paikallisella v\u00e4est\u00f6ll\u00e4 on kalastuskiinti\u00f6, muilta se on rauhoitettu. Rauha on kuitenkin suhteellinen k\u00e4site.

Se j\u00e4i ep\u00e4selv\u00e4ksi, mit\u00e4 arapaimat tekev\u00e4t Borneossa. Muuta kuin uivat S I Toursin altaassa, siis. Eric tosin viittasi johonkin suunnitteilla olevaan paikkaan, jonne ne on tarkoitus vapauttaa. Ehk\u00e4 jokin uusi liikeidea.

Altaan reunalla on kyltti DON’T PUT YOUR HAND IN THE WATER.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Abai Jungle Lodgella on monta valttikorttia. Yksi on kyl\u00e4n l\u00e4heisyys. Abain parikymppiset pojat ovat rento ja tehokas henkil\u00f6kunta. Toki my\u00f6s edullinen. Viritetyll\u00e4 p\u00e4rin\u00e4veneell\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4see minuutissa joen yli kotiin. Tyt\u00f6t tekev\u00e4t kotit\u00f6it\u00e4, Eric kertoo. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Toinen on luonnon l\u00e4heisyys. Majat on ripoteltu puoliympyr\u00e4n muotoon mets\u00e4n keskelle l\u00e4helle jokea. Milloin vain voi n\u00e4hd\u00e4 mit\u00e4 vain, koska luonto p\u00e4\u00e4see liki. Metrin korkeuteen rakennettu puinen boardwalk, joka yhdist\u00e4\u00e4 majat ja ravintolan, loiventaa city-ihmisen viidakkostressi\u00e4, mutta lis\u00e4\u00e4 siihen yll\u00e4tysmomentin: p\u00e4ivitt\u00e4isen ukkoskuuron ja tasaisen l\u00e4mm\u00f6n yhteisvaikutuksesta lankuille muodostuu tropiikin mustaa j\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4, eloper\u00e4ist\u00e4 t\u00f6hn\u00e4\u00e4 joka n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 vedelt\u00e4 mutta on liukastetta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kolmas on kokki. Ruoka on hyv\u00e4\u00e4, mutta lis\u00e4mausteena on kokin toimenkuva ja persoona. H\u00e4n on aina paikalla auttamassa nuorta henkil\u00f6kuntaa ja pit\u00e4m\u00e4ss\u00e4 mielialaa korkealla. En ole ennen ollut paikassa, miss\u00e4 matkalaukun kantajalla on kokin essu p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4. Lodgella on my\u00f6s operatiivinen manageri, vaitonainen taustahenkil\u00f6 joka kulkee paperipinon ja taskulaskimen kanssa.

Nelj\u00e4s on homman py\u00f6ritys. Se toimii. Turisteja tulee ja menee. Monet vain sy\u00f6v\u00e4t t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 lounaan matkalla seuraavaan kyl\u00e4\u00e4n, Sukauhun, joka on Kinabatangan-turismin p\u00e4\u00e4paikkoja. Ne jotka j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t, viipyv\u00e4t yleens\u00e4 vain pari y\u00f6t\u00e4. Trafiikkia piisaa ja varsinkin ruokailut ovat kiireisi\u00e4, mutta asiat sujuvat koska tilat ovat avarat ja palvelu pelaa. Ja jos on erikoistilaisuuksia, kyl\u00e4n kundit ja kokki muodostavat pop up -b\u00e4ndin, joka soittaa, laulaa ja tanssittaa yleis\u00f6\u00e4.

Niiden viiden y\u00f6n aikana, jonka vietimme Abai Jungle Lodgessa, kolmena iltana oli honeymoonereiden juhlintaa, kahtena jopa tuplat. T\u00e4m\u00e4 tiesi lukuisia ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4isi\u00e4 kakkukahveja.

Tunnin matkan p\u00e4\u00e4ss\u00e4 yl\u00e4virtaa on em. Sukau. Siell\u00e4 ollaan jo, mekin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

DUTY FREE! DUTY FREE!

ONE THIRTY-TWO!

Danumin laaksossa aamup\u00e4iv\u00e4 on k\u00e4\u00e4ntym\u00e4ss\u00e4 kohti lounasta. Istut hotellin p\u00e4\u00e4rakennuksen sein\u00e4tt\u00f6m\u00e4ss\u00e4 ravintolakerroksessa, kuuntelet lintujen sanomisia ja yrit\u00e4t p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 verkkoon.

Eteisen lattialla lojuu ep\u00e4lukuinen m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4 varvastossuja, sandaaleja, lenkkareita ja bootseja. Joku on liikkeell\u00e4 hotelleista tutuilla valkoisilla kertak\u00e4ytt\u00f6tossuilla.

Saman eteistilan seinien ja katon gekkotiheys on iltaisin noin 3 per neli\u00f6. Kaikki ovat vaaleita talogekkoja, mutta kun astuu ulos puiselle k\u00e4velysillalle, lajikirjo kasvaa heti; mets\u00e4n gekot ovat kirjavia, yleisv\u00e4ritys tumma.

Samassa syd\u00e4nalassa l\u00e4ik\u00e4ht\u00e4\u00e4. Taas.

N\u00e4ink\u00f6 se alkaa? T\u00e4ss\u00e4k\u00f6 se nyt sitten oli?

Ei. Ei kammiov\u00e4rin\u00e4\u00e4, vaan kanta-astuva turisti. Pitk\u00e4t lattialankut resonoivat j\u00e4nnitt\u00e4v\u00e4sti. Kokemus on opettanut, mihin ravintolan p\u00f6yt\u00e4\u00e4n ei kannata istua.

Alapuolella, maan tasalla, on meneill\u00e4\u00e4n logistinen operaatio.

Vajaan 40 hengen kiinalaisryhm\u00e4 (tai Taiwanista? Hong Kongista? en ole varma) tekee l\u00e4ht\u00f6\u00e4 2,5 tunnin ajomatkalle takaisin Ladah Datuun. Korkeintaan kymmenvuotiaita lapsia puolet, toinen puoli aikuisia, lasten vanhempia l\u00e4hinn\u00e4. Seitsem\u00e4n 4×4:sta ja kaksi pikkubussia on parkattu sinne minne mahtuu, laukkuja nostellaan sis\u00e4\u00e4n. Itse kuljetettavat ovat maksamassa ravintolalaskua, n\u00e4psim\u00e4ss\u00e4 viime hetken kuvia, yritt\u00e4m\u00e4ss\u00e4 ottaa kiinni viel\u00e4 yht\u00e4 kovakuoriaista, juoksemassa viel\u00e4 t\u00e4m\u00e4n kerran ravintolan p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4h\u00e4n. Oranssiin puolitakkiin ja vaaleisiin housuihin pukeutunutta, paljasjalkaista henkil\u00f6kuntaa seisoo siell\u00e4 t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4. THANK YOU THANK YOU BYE BYE.

Sen verran mit\u00e4 ulkopuolinen ymm\u00e4rsi ryhm\u00e4n tekemisist\u00e4, oltiin kahden p\u00e4iv\u00e4n luontoleirill\u00e4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Catydid<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kiinnostus kaikkeen ymp\u00e4rill\u00e4 etenev\u00e4\u00e4n tai lojuvaan oli aivan valtava. Sit\u00e4 havainnoinnin, ihmettelyn, jakamisen ja valokuvaamisen m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4\u00e4! Kohteen ymp\u00e4rille muodostui saman tien tiivis ja \u00e4\u00e4nek\u00e4s kimppu katsojia. Eik\u00e4 innostus suinkaan laantunut yhden valokuvan ottamiseen, vaan se jatkui ja jatkui kunnes pienimm\u00e4t ja\/tai hitaimmatkin p\u00e4\u00e4siv\u00e4t l\u00e4hiet\u00e4isyydelle luonnon ihmeest\u00e4.

Ennen illallista k\u00e4ytiin l\u00e4pi, mit\u00e4 p\u00e4iv\u00e4n aikana oli n\u00e4hty. Show & tell muuten paitsi ett\u00e4 oppilas seisoi ujosti hymyillen vieress\u00e4 kun opettaja n\u00e4ytti siniseen vihkoon tehtyj\u00e4 lyijykyn\u00e4piirroksia ja hauskutti yleis\u00f6\u00e4. Sitten taputettiin.

Sellainen vanhan tyylin palautesessio. Kaikilla oli elektroniikkaa mukana viimosen p\u00e4\u00e4lle, mutta oppitunnin v\u00e4lineist\u00f6 oli perinteinen, ainakin t\u00e4ll\u00e4 leirill\u00e4.

Ne muutamat piirrokset, jotka n\u00e4in (kiikarilla baarin puolelta) olivat oikein mainioita: isolla viivalla reippaasti hahmoteltuja kuningaskalastajia ja orankeja.

Niit\u00e4 ryhm\u00e4n yhdess\u00e4 kokemisen huippuhetki\u00e4, joita me muutkin p\u00e4\u00e4simme todistamaan, olivat 20-senttinen, punajalkainen hepokatti ja kuuluisa kello kuuden kaskas, jolla on kokoa ja n\u00e4k\u00f6\u00e4. Edellinen lounaalla, j\u00e4lkimm\u00e4inen illallisella.

Kaskas lensi esiin pime\u00e4st\u00e4. Se p\u00e4risteli valoista sokaistuneena p\u00f6ytien ymp\u00e4rill\u00e4 kunnes t\u00f6rm\u00e4si koristeena olevaan saviruukkuun. Yksi opettajista heitti saman tien lautasliinan sivuun, juoksi kaskaan luo ja otti kiinni.

T\u00e4st\u00e4 alkoi dokumentointirupeama, jota kesti ainakin puoli tuntia.

Taskulamppujen kiilat halkoivat pime\u00e4\u00e4, k\u00e4nnyk\u00f6iden ja t\u00e4pp\u00e4reiden loistetta, kiljahduksia kun kaskas oli p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 karkuun. Seuraavaksi sit\u00e4 kuvattiin uusi kierros, t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa tiedemiestyyliin valkoista lautasliinaa vasten. Sek\u00e4 yl\u00e4- ett\u00e4 alapuolelta. Lopuksi kaskasta saivat pit\u00e4\u00e4 k\u00e4dess\u00e4 kaikki jotka halusivat – jokainen n\u00e4ytti haluavan – ja totta kai t\u00e4m\u00e4kin valokuvattiin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"<\/a>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kun joskus j\u00e4i kuvaamaan jotakin pikku juttua ravintolan sein\u00e4ll\u00e4, lattialla tai puutarhassa, v\u00e4litt\u00f6m\u00e4sti alkoi sel\u00e4n taakse muodostua jonoa, odottamaan kuvausvuoroa.

Heit\u00e4 tulee ik\u00e4v\u00e4. BYE BYE NOW.

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Jul 18, 2016 The dominant male Broboscis monkey makes a spectacular jump. The entire foliage of the landing tree shakes and shivers. Jul 18, 2016 To this, his harem produces a short, soft, downward sigh. A unison sign of admire? More like “Take it easy” tells Eric, the guide. Jul 18, 2016 There are ~20 … Continue reading Borneo 2016<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[146],"tags":[140,132],"class_list":["post-891","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-travel","tag-borneo","tag-travel"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/891","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=891"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/891\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":939,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/891\/revisions\/939"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=891"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=891"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=891"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}