{"id":898,"date":"2022-11-04T11:47:00","date_gmt":"2022-11-04T09:47:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/?p=898"},"modified":"2026-03-24T11:26:13","modified_gmt":"2026-03-24T09:26:13","slug":"borneo-2012","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/?p=898","title":{"rendered":"Borneo 2012"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

[Ilmestynyt alun perin Twitteriss\u00e4 ja Facebookissa (suomenkielinen)]<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hong Kong<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
\n\"Scenery\"<\/a>\n<\/div>
Scenery from the hotel<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 13, 2012<\/a> Chinese women want to have pointed chins, achieved through bone surgery. China Daily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 13, 2012<\/a> Ocean Park has launched a polar adventure w\/ over 100 animals from both the Arctic and Antarctic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 14, 2012<\/a> Eyewitnessing from Novotel Citygate: Tung Chung Cable Car runs empty on 7-8 AM. The rest of the day there’s a queue. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 14, 2012<\/a> Hotel complimentaries not used: local calls, in-coming fax, local outgoing fax, pressing (2 pieces), shoe shine. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sabah, Maleysian Borneo<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
Tabin<\/h5>\n\n\n\n
\n\"Road<\/a>\n<\/div>
Road ahead<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

25.7.2012<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kumpi on mielenkiintoisempi, luonnontilainen vai ihmisen osittain tai kokonaan uusiksi sisustama mets\u00e4? Se riippuu. Luontoturistille, jolla on rajallinen m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4 oikeuksia ja aikaa liikkua, innostavaa on niiden keskin\u00e4inen vuorovaikutus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tabinissa el\u00e4imi\u00e4 n\u00e4kyy eniten main roadilla<\/em>. Se kiemurtelee kuoppaisena secondary forestin<\/em> (kaadettu, kasvanut sen j\u00e4lkeen itsekseen) ja paikallisen \u00f6ljypalmuplantaasin (istutettu kaadetun mets\u00e4n tilalle) v\u00e4liss\u00e4. Tie vie Lahad Datuun. Se ei ole yleinen tie. Tiet\u00e4 saavat k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4:
Tabinin henkil\u00f6kunta ja vieraat; palmuplantaasin kanssa tekemisiss\u00e4 olevat; Wildlife Departmentin mets\u00e4nvartijat; sarvikuonoprojekti; orankiprojekti; he, joilla on ministeri\u00f6n lupa eli repullinen virallisia,
leimattuja dokumentteja.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

P\u00e4\u00e4tien vieress\u00e4, siell\u00e4 t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4, kasvaa viikunapuita. Vaikka siit\u00e4 ei ole miss\u00e4\u00e4n mainintaa, veikkaan ett\u00e4 niit\u00e4 on istutettu. Tai sitten viikunapuu on avointen paikkojen puu\u2026 pahoittelut, huono kasvitiet\u00e4mys. Joka tapauksessa, siell\u00e4 miss\u00e4 viikuna kypsyy, siell\u00e4 ei kauaa tarvitse sy\u00f6ji\u00e4 odotella.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ne el\u00e4imet, jotka sy\u00f6v\u00e4t \u00f6ljypalmun hedelmi\u00e4, siksakkaavat eestaas tien yli. Mit\u00e4 useammin ja eri aikoina p\u00e4iv\u00e4st\u00e4 tiell\u00e4 itse liikkuu, sit\u00e4 varmemmin jotakin n\u00e4kyy tai k\u00e4velee vastaan. El\u00e4imet tottuvat liikenteeseen, uskaltavat olla n\u00e4kyvill\u00e4. Osa villiel\u00e4imist\u00e4 pystyy el\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n muuttuneessakin mets\u00e4ss\u00e4, kunhan ruokaa ja lepopaikkoja l\u00f6ytyy. \u00d6ljypalmumetsik\u00f6ss\u00e4 vihtyv\u00e4t vain rotat. Nekin k\u00e4yv\u00e4t lomilla siell\u00e4, niss\u00e4 ei taatusti huoju yksik\u00e4\u00e4n palmu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tie my\u00f6s helpottaa kulkemista.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 liikutaan ja paljon. El\u00e4imet eiv\u00e4t suinkaan j\u00e4\u00e4 saman viikunapuun juurelle odottamaan, ett\u00e4 kyps\u00e4t hedelm\u00e4t tipahtavat suuhun. Ready To Eat -tarroitetut hedelm\u00e4t sy\u00f6d\u00e4\u00e4n ensin puusta A. Sitten siiryt\u00e4\u00e4n puuhun B. Sy\u00f6da\u00e4n valmit. C. Valmiit. D.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Viikunat kypsyv\u00e4t 2-3 p\u00e4iv\u00e4ss\u00e4. Jos puut ovat kaukana toisistaan, D:st\u00e4 palataan ehk\u00e4 takaisin A:han. Ainakin tarkistamaan kypsyysaste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ei-luonnontilainen mets\u00e4 kasvatt\u0259a sankkaa aluskasvillisuutta. Kun korkeat, tihe\u00e4latvuksiset puut puuttuvat, aurinko p\u00e4\u00e4see paistamaan alas asti. Kaikille riitt\u00e4\u00e4 valoa, demokraattisesti. Kaikki kasvaa. Trooppisessa l\u00e4mm\u00f6ss\u00e4 ja kosteudessa norsunkin tallaamat polut umpeutuvat parissa p\u00e4iv\u00e4ss\u00e4. On p\u00e4\u00e4llyskasveja ja kaikenlaista muuta rompetta, osa piikikk\u00e4it\u00e4. Tarraavat ik\u00e4v\u00e4sti turkkiin. Norsulle on ahdasta joka tapauksessa. Jos l\u00e4hist\u00f6ll\u00e4 on monen metrin levyinen polku, joka pysyy aina auki, totta kai sit\u00e4 k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n. Tiell\u00e4 onkin runsaasti norsunlantakasoja.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Luonnontilainen sademets\u00e4 on aivan erilainen elinymp\u00e4rist\u00f6. Latvusto on niin peitt\u00e4v\u00e4, ett\u00e4 mets\u00e4npohjalla on h\u00e4m\u00e4r\u00e4\u00e4. Tilaa on, valoa ei. Aluskasvillisuutta vain nimeksi. Liikkuminen on helppoa ja nopeaa, p\u00e4\u00e4see vet\u00e4ytym\u00e4\u00e4n ilman h\u00e4slinki\u00e4 ja meteli\u00e4. Toisaalta, hedelm\u00e4puita on harvemmassa, koska puitakin on. Samasta syyst\u00e4 vaarat ovat t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 erilaisia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El\u00e4inperheiss\u00e4 k\u00e4yd\u00e4\u00e4n jatkuvaa pohdintaa, mik\u00e4 olisi paras paikka asua. Lasten pit\u00e4isi saada kasvaa v\u00e4lj\u00e4sti, mutta palveluissakin on puolensa. Moni tekee kompromissin: ruokailut ja liaanissaroikkumisharjoitukset secondary forestissa, y\u00f6pyminen ja lis\u00e4\u00e4ntyminen ytimess\u00e4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tabinilla on mets\u00e4\u00e4 reilut 100 000 hehtaaria. Se on 30 kilometri\u00e4 kanttiinsa oleva alue, ellen ole laskenut v\u00e4\u00e4rin. Siit\u00e4 kymmenen prosenttia, 9000 hehtaaria, on luonnontilaista. 10 x 10 km. Luonnontilainen siin\u00e4 mieless\u00e4, ett\u00e4 puustoa ei ole hakattu teollisesti, myyntiin, avohakkuina, j\u00e4tt\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 j\u00e4ljelle vain arvottomaksi koetut rungot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tabinin luonnontilaiselle ydinaluelle p\u00e4\u00e4sev\u00e4t vain tutkijat, luontoturistit eiv\u00e4t. Alkuper\u00e4isen mets\u00e4n kaunista, korkeaa, vaihtelevaa siluettia ja vihre\u00e4n eri s\u00e4vyj\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4see ihailemaan jeepin lavalta, kun tien varrella on sopiva aukko kasvillisuudessa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

“Some indigenous people are stubborn and don’t want to leave the forest”,<\/em> kertoo Mohamad-opas. Alkuasukkaille on rakennettu kyl\u00e4 Lahad Datun l\u00e4helle. Kuten kaikki v\u00e4est\u00f6nsiirrot maailman sivu, t\u00e4m\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n projekti ei onnistu sataprosenttisesti ilman pakkotoimia. Tuskin sittenk\u00e4\u00e4n.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mohamad itse on k\u00e4velev\u00e4\u00e4 etnografiaa. Filippiinil\u00e4iset vanhemmat. Is\u00e4n sukuhaaran puolelta lis\u00e4ksi borneolainen forest people,<\/em> mets\u00e4ss\u00e4 el\u00e4neen malaiji-heimon j\u00e4sen. Asunut pari vuotta jokikansankin (river people<\/em>) parissa. Erikoistunut suurriistan mets\u00e4stykseen, edellisess\u00e4 el\u00e4m\u00e4ss\u00e4\u00e4n. Hyv\u00e4 siis j\u00e4ljityksess\u00e4, mutta pikkuel\u00e4imist\u00e4 h\u00e4n ei ole j\u00e4rin kiinnostunut. Ulkon\u00e4\u00f6ss\u00e4 aimo annos LOTR:n Frodo Reppulia, elokuvan\u00e4yttelij\u00e4\u00e4 siis. Kunnianhimoinen ja ilmeisen lahjakas nuori mies. Vihit\u00e4\u00e4n avioon kuukauden kuluttua, kun 19. p\u00e4iv\u00e4 alkanut Ramadan loppuu. Kihlattu on Tabinin toimistosihteeri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Palataan tielle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ytimen soratien varrella ei ole hedelm\u00e4puita kuin sattumalta. Vain lintuja n\u00e4kyy ja kuuluu, muita el\u00e4imi\u00e4 ei. Miksi ne tulisivat tien l\u00e4helle muuten kuin sattumalta? Ainoat nis\u00e4kk\u00e4\u00e4t, joita t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 yleens\u00e4 n\u00e4kee, ovat rehabilitoidut orangit, kasvatuslaitoksissa varttuneet. Mutta niihin ei saa kiinnitt\u00e4\u00e4 huomiota kuten kameraa. Jos kuvaa, ne kuvittelevat ett\u00e4 nit\u00e4 kutsutaan sy\u00f6m\u00e4\u00e4n ja tulevat liki. lhmisest\u00e4 poisoppimimen ottaa aikansa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ydinmets\u00e4ss\u00e4 on my\u00f6s kymmenkunta kuplivaa mutal\u00e4hdett\u00e4. Mud volcano <\/em>on el\u00e4inten mineraalispa ja -ravintola. Joistakin on l\u00f6ydetty kaksisarvisen borneonsarvikuonon j\u00e4lki\u00e4. N\u00e4m\u00e4kin el\u00e4imet roikkuvat sukupuuton partaalla. Huonoja sopeutujia, erakkoluonteita. T\u00e4m\u00e4 on hengenvaarallista muutosvastarintaa. Jossei ole h\u00e4vinnyt mets\u00e4 ymp\u00e4rilt\u00e4, sarvikuonot on tapettu. Sanon suoraan: julmasti, r\u00f6yhke\u00e4sti, ahneesti, itsekk\u00e4\u00e4sti kiinalaisen l\u00e4\u00e4ketieteen tarpeisiin. Sarvesta teht\u00e4v\u00e4n jauheen v\u00e4itet\u00e4\u00e4n parantavan potenssia. T\u00e4st\u00e4 ei ole mit\u00e4\u00e4n n\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00e4. Jos olisi, kynsi\u00e4\u00e4n pureskelevilla seisoisi paremmin. Samaa sarveisainetta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 16, 2012<\/a> Since 3\/2011, Tabin Wildlife Resort has improved roads, built a suspension bridge over the otter river, and installed wireless.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 17, 2012<\/a> Harsh calls from above. Black Hornbills. “It’s like Angry Birds, the cartoon y’know” says Mohammad and flashes an irresistible smile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 17, 2012<\/a> Rich wildlife thanks to fig trees in fruit. Gibbons & Orangutans are many, and both have babies. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 17, 2012<\/a> Irrigation channels of palm oil plantations are home to small fish. Much appreciated by Collared Kingfishers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 17, 2012<\/a> The amount of elephant dung on the road raises hopes of seeing the animal outputting it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 17, 2012<\/a> Water Buffalo tracks are fresh. So is the round heap of gleaming excrement. Female w\/ a young. Hoofs of F sink more than those of a M.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Current\"<\/a>\n<\/div>
Current in the Lipad river<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 17, 2012<\/a> July 15th: heavy rain 3:30-6 PM. The amount of water in Lipad rose to flood levels, licking the first River Lodges. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 17, 2012<\/a> 4-5 different species of Hornbills easily seen. Wonders of nature: awesome shape, mighty aviation skills, top charts sound. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 17, 2012 <\/a>Tabin soundscape: Green Imperial Pigeons’ deep two-syllable call. Somewhere in the house, a Barking Lizard yelps like a sleepy dog. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 17, 2012<\/a> Mammals of last night’s dusk drive: Red Giant Flying Squirrel; Leopard Cat; Yellow-throated Marten; Common Palm Civet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2012<\/a> A House Gecko drops on the table, curls its tail in slow motion – and is gone. Lunch as usual. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2012<\/a> Malay Weasel is 50 cm of orange speedyness w\/ a white head. Inhabits a hole under the restaurant. Fav meal to Jerdon’s Baza. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Top<\/a>\n<\/div>
Top floor, waiting for the night<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 18, 2012<\/a> Last night in a hammock on the Mud Volcano tower. A nearby fig tree attracts dozens of Hornbills + a Binturong (1pm). Mud: wild pigs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2012<\/a> Mohamad points to his left leg. “Pig-tailed Macaque bit me when I was a boy. They’re nasty.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2012<\/a> Macaque families live near the road that runs between Tabin and the plantation. They like oil palm fruits, and eat only the best parts. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2012<\/a> Few things in this world are more touching to watch than an Orangutan mom with her 2yr old baby, swinging high in the canopy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Celebrities\"<\/a>\n<\/div>
Stephen<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2012<\/a> Stephen, the father of nature guiding in Lahad Datu, was w\/ us in 2011. Age 50+, he still works at Tabin. “I’m an old man”, he claims. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2012<\/a> A Field Guide to the Mammals of Borneo includes 33 species of squirrels. No wonder. Squirrel density is surprisingly high.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2012<\/a> On the cuteness scale, a Plain Pygmy Squirrel has a high position. On the acceleration scale, too. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 19, 2012<\/a> Cicadas are underrated as vocalists. That said, the singing marvels of tropical Asia do differ from the high vol ones of the Americas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 20, 2012<\/a> In March, a juvenile Clouded Leopard came to the lodge. Walked the walkway. Gnarled to the startled staff for goodbye. True, saw pics. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 20, 2012<\/a> Behind a curb, a slender, light-colored figure emerges, leaps over the road w\/ one gracious jump. Yellow Muntjac aka Barking Deer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 20, 2012<\/a> “Sad sky”, says Mohamad. Overcast. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2012<\/a> At 7 PM, behind the HQ of the Wildlife Dept, near Tabin, a big family of Hose’s Langur aka Grey Leaf Monkey. Much awaited! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2012<\/a> Mom is drowsy. The baby in breastfeeding is all white. The greyness increases by the age. A full gradient hops&leaps around.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2012<\/a> The shape of the head and the facial colors of the Langur are striking. Forest fairies as perfect as they can get. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2012<\/a> 8 AM we pass the gate of the Rhino Project. Under the fence, the feet of the new (since Dec) female! Feeding time. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 21, 2012<\/a> Didn’t know that rhinos speak. This one gives loud, short, high-pitched mows:”Who’s the guest here, eh? Snappy with the freakfast!” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> Deepest night. Then: shrill beeps of a smoke detector. What? Where? Wait – this is not home. It’s a cricket. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> “I know one word in Swedish: hackspett”. Now Mohamad, who speaks multiple languages, knows also one word in Finnish: tikka. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> The Bornean Rhinoceros is a sub-species of the Sumatran Rhino. Only few left because of those that call themselves human beings. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> The rhino couple here will be moved to the core area in 2015. The older female wasn’t fertile. Sadly, she is also blind now. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> It’s proved to be very difficult to get rhinos to breed in captivity. Recently, one Sumatran gave birth at a mainland zoo. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> The color of water in Lipad has changed. After the flood, for four days, it was cafe latte. Now it’s more like green tea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> 8 AM. On top of a tree stump, a Crested Serpent Eagle is eating a King Cobra. Pulls out the guts. The body of the snake crumples.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> Great Argus calls somewhere near the road. “Never seen one”, tells Mohamad. Someone has ‘cos there’s a drawing in the bird book.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> They say that June is the best month to see Gibbons. For a Finn, that’s unfortunate; most beautiful time at home. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> For me, durian ice cream was meat in zero temp. Couldn’t make it. Mohamad smiles. “Tasty. Sometimes we make durian porridge” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> Above the bed on the wall, a dying Barking Lizard clings head down on one foot. On the bed, remains of a cricket. Death by poisoning? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> 25 cm, clay-colored, big eyes in a big head, long legs and tail. Handsome. Carefully, we carry the lizard outside on the porch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> In the morning, the body is limb, eyes half-shut. The suction surface of the toes is still strong, though. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> Ants are already there. With some effort, we pull the toes from the wooden floor, and push the body over the edge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> No drive without a Monitor Lizard or two, size M or L. “Godzilla”, says Mohamad and tries to keep an earnest face. Can’t. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> Thu-Sat: crisscross dusk driving in the far corner of the palm plantation. Tracks and rumors of an elephant herd of 40 individuals. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 22, 2012<\/a> The plantation is surrounded by an electric wire fence, trapped onto wooden poles. To enter, elephants first push down a pole. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> Huge, round tracks in the mud. Stomped grass and bushes. Dung in various phases of decay, pushing tiny white mushrooms. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> No matter how pygmy in elephant measures, the Bornean is still big. Young bulls become easily agitated. A camera flash is a no-no. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Borneo<\/a>\n<\/div>
Bornean elephant<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> The local elephant has a much longer tail in proportion than its African cousins. The tail almost sweeps the ground. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> When Stephen encounters an elephant, he raises hand to salute&shouts:”Eli!” It works. “I’ve been 6 years in Tabin. They remember me.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> Like macaques, civets and rats, elephants are after the oil palm fruits. This particular time though, they are somewhere else. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Colugo\"<\/a>\n<\/div>
Colugo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> Colugo is an animal that science has hard times to find the right twig in the tree of species. There’s nothing quite like it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> The oddest part in Colugo is the mouth. Definitely a non-rodent. Upper jaw: 0 front teeth. Lower: comb-like kind-of front teeth. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> Its gliding membrane is ridiculously big. Yet Colugo weighs less than the heaviest of Giant Flying Squirrels. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> In Sabah forests, Colugo is fairly common. Hard to spot though because it’s mostly nocturnal. Brilliant camouflage unhelps too. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> In the flashlight, Colugo looks like a magician wrapped in an oriental cape. Slowly turning neck, it reveals a pair of big, moist eyes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> Tropical nights are a playground for flash-o-holics. Novelty in Tabin is light with an aspheric lens. No spill, just spots. Unreal. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> 9 AM on the road. Pungent smell of rotten meat. With a lazy lizard gait, five Monitor Lizards approach the target in the bush.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> Jet plane shaped Blue-throated Bee-Eaters abound. In 3\/2011, they dug nest holes in the sandy helipad of Borneo Rainforest Lodge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> The secondary forests in Tabin were logged 40 yrs ago. A reminiscence of the past: tall, pale Menggaris trees. Hollow -> no value -> saved. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> Menggaris is called a honeytree, and for a reason. Protruding from the trunk, high up, just below canopy: sweet yellow swollen cakes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 23, 2012<\/a> Monitor Lizard’s saliva is infectious. Mohamad tells about Swedish research investigating it. Medicine for heart attacks? To check. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Early<\/a>\n<\/div>
Early morning walk<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Borneo Rainforest Lodge, Danum Valley<\/h5>\n\n\n\n

Jul 25, 2012<\/a> After Tabin, Borneo Rainforest Lodge in Danum Valley said Hi! w\/ a downpour. “3 sunny days in July so far”, told Denny. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Gradient\"<\/a>\n<\/div>
Gradient<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 25, 2012<\/a> 6 AM, out of thick mist, the silhouette of the forest starts to become discernible in patches. They seem to hang loose in mid sky. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 25, 2012<\/a> Above, curled up around a vine, a motionless pale green Gray-tailed Racer. “When he’s there, the Agama Lizard is not “, laughs Denny. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Mother<\/a>\n<\/div>
Orangutan baby and mom<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 25, 2012<\/a> Orangutan mom & 2yro baby eating figs. Her 3rd. 6 yrs ago, in the age of 5, the 2nd one was attacked by a Cloud Leopard. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 25, 2012<\/a> It happened one night. The cat came and made an attempt, but the baby managed to escape. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 25, 2012<\/a> In the morning, it was found on the ground, injured. The vet is in Lahad Datu. 3 hrs. The baby died during the drive. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 25, 2012<\/a> Autopsy revealed claw and bite marks in the neck. They matched with Cloud Leopard. The first reported incident of its kind. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 25, 2012<\/a> To gather Orangutan research data in the field means e.g. that its morning droppings need to be located and hurried in the fridge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 25, 2012<\/a> One Proboscis monkey was briefly spotted here last week. Danum Valley is not its usual habitat. Prefers swampy areas and mangroves. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 25, 2012<\/a> A hawkmoth beauty flew around the lights last night. 10 cm, dark blue head&body, orange wings w\/ irregular, big black spots. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 25, 2012<\/a> The Original Bugshirt trousers (made in Canada) are 10yro. Only 1 mosquito bite! Now the grotch seam is giving up. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 26, 2012<\/a> 8 PM. Sambar Deer tiptoe from the outer circle of shadows to the inner. A small group grazes around the riverside cabins. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 26, 2012<\/a> Denny explains:”They like young shoots. 2-3 days after trimming.” Can deer count? Maybe they just do a daily status check. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\""It's<\/a>\n<\/div>
“It’s like a helmet”<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 26, 2012<\/a> Denny, the guide on our 2011 visit too, is a great personality. He is also a trained technician. Special field: refrigerators. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 26, 2012<\/a> At noon in the Insect Corner, a small tree next to a light pole in the service area. Many green and brown leaves look suspicious. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 26, 2012<\/a> Several species of moths, among them an uncommon Moon Moth w\/ spurs twice as long as its body. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 26, 2012<\/a> Longhorn, Scarab and Rhinoceros beetles; 15 cm Mantis (green & brown); 10 cm, pale tree frog; etc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 26, 2012<\/a> Every morning, Denny checks the tree. “Sometimes the Orchid Mantis is here. It’s either pure white or pink. Green eyes.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 26, 2012<\/a> Long-tailed Macaques do not share. When a bird lands on their branch on a fig tree, they shake the branch to scare it off. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 26, 2012<\/a> Binturong (Bearcat) is here. Reason: figs. It’s not a bear nor a cat. Muscular and agile, it rummages through the trees. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Two<\/a>\n<\/div>
Violin beetle<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2012<\/a> Violin beetle. Jaw-dropping. Body length 10+ cm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2012<\/a> Like a bow hopping on a string, “tok tok tok tok trtrtrtrtrt” of the Yellow-crowned Barbet adds classy nonstop audio to a day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 27, 2012<\/a> Giant Squirrel IS big. “When moving, the tail is held out horizontally but when sitting it hangs vertically” says the book. True. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 28, 2012<\/a> Scorzio. An A\/C’ed hide to film butterflies and lizards would be cool. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 28, 2012<\/a> In the forest, eating fallen figs, a dark tree shrew. Hind part of a squirrel, front not. Once, tree shrews were classified as primates.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 28, 2012<\/a> Canopy walkway. On a branch, a small penguin-like bird in a white collar and pink underparts. Black-and-yellow Broadbill. A Danum dandy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 28, 2012<\/a> Helmeted Hornbill is the Great Macaw of this side of the Pacific. A genuine superstar, it draws all attention. Stupefying. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Hit<\/a>\n<\/div>
Bornean banded pitta<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 28, 2012<\/a> Head still spinning, a Bornean Banded-Pitta sits still in the palm of a Danum guide. “Not the first time it flew against the kitchen window”. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Tiger<\/a>\n<\/div>
Tiger leech<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jul 29, 2012<\/a> Most of the leeches here are Tiger Leeches. Big and colorful. They hang on vegetation, about 1 m high. Above or under leaves. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 29, 2012<\/a> When warm, blood-filled objects pass by, they activate at once like a muscle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 29, 2012<\/a> Denny likes to tease leeches. Waves his hand an inch above a whole colony so that it twists and turns. “Spooooky!” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 29, 2012<\/a> As a road block, leech socks, strapped tight under the knee, are a must. Also, the shirt sleeve needs to be tugged into trousers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 29, 2012<\/a> Only 1 bite so far. The leech sat firmly on the throat. Left w\/ the help of some balm. A little bleeding for 1-2 hrs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 30, 2012<\/a> 1,5 hr standstill up in the Canopy Walkway. The dusk comes closer. Last bird flights, first bat flights. Night shift. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 30, 2012<\/a> In torchlight, the ground is a twinkling carpet of tiny diamonds. Lost by a Brunei Sultan? Not these ones. Spiders. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 30, 2012<\/a> Soft calls like from a woodwind instrument. Surely a tree frog. “Thought so too. But no, it’s a leafhopper”, says Denny. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 30, 2012<\/a> “And what EXACTLY are we looking for?” A teenage boy in Buddy Holly eyeglasses turns his back to Orangutans and yawns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> Borneo Rainforest Lodge is built on a wooden platform that rests on wooden pillars. Everything wobbles. Like a mild heart failure. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> Hardly any family w\/o an iPad or two. eReaders also frequent. Many ppl seem to have a rather bad net addiction. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> A Finn. Earns his living by playing poker. Travels. Knows best Africa and Southern America. This trip: Indonesia & Malaysia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> “In Indonesia, language is easily a problem. English is rare.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> For gorilla tours, he recommended Rwanda & Uganda. If time is an issue: Rwanda. The forest is the same in both. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> “Uganda is good, was there for 4 months. Old cultural norms still rule. If you brake them, say you steal, your ppl will punish you.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> “Kenya is different. Can’t go out after dark. Unsafe.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> Japanese rubber boots: the leg part is soft, fastened up under the knees w\/ laces so boots acts also as leech socks. Clever&stylish. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> 7 AM. A long-legged bird runs over the path. Giant Pitta. Denny:”You know the Japanese guy w\/ a long lens? He’s looking for this.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> A big brownish leaf falls down and starts to – fly? Denny runs after it, excited. Atlas Moth! One of the biggest moth species. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> The wingspan must be over 25 cm. “2 yrs ago I saw a female this big”, Denny says, pressing wrists together and opening palms. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jul 31, 2012<\/a> “Dead and without head, but I took a picture after all”, he grins. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Red<\/a>\n<\/div>
A juvenile Red leaf monkey<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Aug 1, 2012<\/a> Red Leaf Monkey is a funkier version of the Grey Leaf one in Tabin. Fur of hip orange hue, a face mask of dark rubber. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 1, 2012<\/a> The baby is born white. Later it turns yellow, and finally the reddish orange of the parents. A big group is a colorful lot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 1, 2012<\/a> Last year we spotted one yellow grown-up. It’s a morph. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 1, 2012<\/a> “150 yrs ago the River People blow-piped them”, tells Denny. Some groups are so scared it’s hard to think they aren’t still hunted. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 1, 2012<\/a> Denny shows a scar on his finger. “As a scout boy, I once grabbed a Slow Loris. Easy. But its teeth were sharp and it didn’t let go!” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 1, 2012<\/a> After dozens of night drives and walks in 2011-2012 both in Tabin and Danum Valley, still no Slow Loris. Maybe we’ve been out too early. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 1, 2012<\/a> This week, the Moon has been full and the sky clear. A semi-day. Night animals prefer no Moon. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 1, 2012<\/a> From new leaves, Loris makes a nest the size and shape of a volleyball. It’s for daytime rest, and is in use for a longer time. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 1, 2012<\/a> The dry season is definitely here. Much later than normally, they say. Except the heavy downfall of the arrival day, no rain. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> Machetes slash and swoosh. Both sides of the main road are being cleared of vegetation. “To see animals better”, explains Denny.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> A few steps down the hill, cutting has revealed a hidden treasure. Denny stares. “I had NO idea there’s a pond. All these years!” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> The same evening, at the dusk walk, Denny rushes to the pond like Carter to the tomb of Tutankhamon. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> Torchlight sweeps through darkness, cuts slices left and right, stops. “Yes!”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> There are two Wallace’s Flying Frogs. Their limbs are so big and full of web that the frogs seem unsure what to do with them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> A Field Guide to the Frogs of Borneo declares that this one is “the original ‘Flying Frog of Borneo’ “. Be aware of cheap copies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> Denny has met the author & his team. “They tried to get a photo of the flight. Well, the frog did fly, but photographing failed.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> Scientific methods are plenty. “The trick was to gently poke the frog into its stomach. But – it only worked once.” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> From Tree Frogs, Four-lined and File-eared have been the most common ones on this trip. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> A sudden sound blast of “HONK!” by Bornean Horned Frog is there. Unlike March 2011, the frog itself hasn’t shown up. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> 2011 Denny guided us to its place: under the massive generator of the lodge. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Bornean<\/a>\n<\/div>
Bornean horned frog<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> There it sat, in constant humming noise, by a tiny pool of water with few grasses as decoration, looking gloomy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> Orangutan droppings under a fig tree. On&in them, different species of dung beetles. Denny:”In my home village, they still roast these” <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> Beetles here don’t transport the dung but eat it on the spot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/a>Aug 2, 2012<\/a> BTW I’m told that in the public M WC, the 1st thing you see, attached on the wall, is a futuristic urinal that glows faintly in blue. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> Small print on the top of the appliance: Electric hand dryer by Mitsubishi. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> A Long-legged Centipede is a marvelously creepy nocturnal insect. Like a langoustine, or a lamp by some hot interior designer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> The gibbon families here are well known, studied and documented. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 2, 2012<\/a> For 10 yrs already, Denny has assisted a Japanese gibbon researcher. Findings will be published in 2013. Congratulations! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> On top of the food chain you can relax, especially if you are young & mom serves you. That’s why we had time to watch them, the cats. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Aug 5, 2012<\/a> “Let’s move on to find a Flat-headed Cat”, Denny jokes. The usual 3:30 PM departure time was hot & dry. It’d stay like that until 5. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Still life by the river<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Our last dusk walk. Denny had outlined the plan in the sand by the Danum River. The idea: to scan forest edges by small rivers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Slow as Loris, we walk the Segama trail. For 1 km, it runs flat along a river. At the end is a bridge. We cross, and turn back. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> On this side, the terrain is undulating. At times, the river bench falls down sharply. Tree roots protrude from the ground. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> 6:05 PM. On a tree trunk by the trail, a little higher than eye-level, a 10+ cm cicada makes several modest tries to start the engine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> “t–tr-trr-trrrrRRRRRRRRRRRRROooRRrrrrrRROOOOOOOOr- -” My ears! The Six O’clock Cicada is a power station on wings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> When the sky is clear, the cicada is punctual. On cloudy afternoons, it may start up to 2 hrs earlier. On misty mornings, around 7. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> The penetrating, metallic sound was once a sign to field workers: time to go to work; time to return back home. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> For us it says: prepare for darkness. It’ll be here in 30 minutes. Headlights? Torch? Mosquito repellent? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Night comes. So does the next river. We turn to follow it, towards the Canopy Walkway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Denny goes first, I’m in the middle, J behind me. Denny and I spot it roughly the same time. A very clear eye-shine. Low. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Must be a civet, I think. Funny though that the eyes stay fixed. Civets are usually active and restless. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> We have just climbed a few meters, and come to a gap up on the bench. On the left, the river. On the right, forest. Ahead: a mammal. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Rule 1: always carry binoculars. My headlight gives just enough lumen. The animal has a roundish face, so it’s definitely not a civet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> In the dark, reasoning is blurry. I recall having wondered for a painfully long time: what’s an animal with a cat’s face? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Denny turns to me, pulls away the bigger torch from my hand and darts forward, whipping the light oddly. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Now, in normal situations Denny is politeness itself. This was serious. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Imagine a domestic cat w\/ exotic patterns and you’ll have a Leopard Cat. In Tabin, a common sight. Hunts rats in the palm plantation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Marbled<\/a>\n<\/div>
Marbled cat<\/a>. Video frame by my husband<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Last year in Tabin we met also a bigger, darker and more uncommon feline: a Marbled Cat. Long furry tail. A cool beast. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> So what was left? Flat-headed Cat, Bay Cat, Clouded Leopard. About the first two, very little is known. The last: uncommon to rare. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> This cat turned its head and moved away from the flickering light show made by Denny. It headed towards the river. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> When it left I could see part of the back. Big patterns. The cat was probably the size of a medium-sized dog. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Hectic moments of was-that-all? And then: another pair of eyes! Even more lower down, on the other side of the gap. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> This cat was lying on the ground, behind a tangle of dead branches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> It dawns on me why Denny does not hold the light steady. He plays with the cat! Tries to keep it interested, not to leave us. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\"Sunda<\/a>\n<\/div>
Sunda clouded leopard<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> The juvenile Sunda Clouded Leopard didn’t leave. We filmed it about 15 min. Had to stop there so as not to disturb it too much. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Denny whispers:”The mom is probably hunting monkeys.” I hope it was lucky. We didn’t see her. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Later, Denny tells us that during some night drives, members of the family have been seen. Never the whole family together. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> Wikipedia <\/a>states that the first documented filming of this animal was done in 2009. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aug 5, 2012<\/a> “Pity I didn’t look carefully when it yawned”, says Denny. In proportion to the skull length, no other living cat has longer teeth. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

[Ilmestynyt alun perin Twitteriss\u00e4 ja Facebookissa (suomenkielinen)] Hong Kong Jul 13, 2012 Chinese women want to have pointed chins, achieved through bone surgery. China Daily. Jul 13, 2012 Ocean Park has launched a polar adventure w\/ over 100 animals from both the Arctic and Antarctic. Jul 14, 2012 Eyewitnessing from Novotel Citygate: Tung Chung Cable … Continue reading Borneo 2012<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[146],"tags":[140,141,132],"class_list":["post-898","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-travel","tag-borneo","tag-hong-kong","tag-travel"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/898","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=898"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/898\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1323,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/898\/revisions\/1323"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=898"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=898"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tuijasonkkila.fi\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=898"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}