Ilmestynyt alun perin Twitterissä.
Uganda
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Afternoon storm is approaching, punctual as it is.
After 2 weeks here, the Engagi Lodge is the 1st hotel that serves wifi & electricity 24/7, give or take minor breaks due to weather.
Bwindi mountains, covered with rainforest, rise steeply behind the river that runs in the valley below. A breathtaking green wall.
Waller’s Starlings up in the waterfall. Stylish black with an orange wing patch. A strong call easily heard over the roar of water.
Hadeda Ibis is the animal counterpart of Nelson in The Simpsons. Ha-ha!
Marabou Stork is nicely described in Birds of East Africa: “Legs dark grey but often appear white as splattered with excrement.”
In LinkedIn, is there a section for Gorilla Tracking Certificates?
African Harrier-Hawk has “a bare yellow facial skin (turns red if excited).” True, noticed when one pair was welcoming each other.
Later, one of the same species was vigorously trying to raid a cavity nest in the savannah in Ishasha, Queen Elisabeth Natural Park (QENP).
Primates so far, in order of appearance: Red-tailed Monkey, Grey-cheeked Mangabey, Chimpanzee (Kibale) 1/3
Red Colobus, L’Hoest’s Monkey, Pied Colobus (Kibale) 2/3
Olive Baboon, Vervet Monkey (QENP); Gorilla, Blue Monkey (Bwindi) 3/3
A high-pitched call of a Galago (aka bushbaby) at 7:45PM when returning from dinner w/ an escort to treehouse. Chimp’s Nest, Kibale.
Escort is there for the African Forest Elephants, although we’re told they cross the swampy area nearby mainly in the rainy season.
The field guide of African mammals by J. Kingdon says that there are 15 Galago species in Africa. That is quite a lot.
Galagos resemble Asian tarsiers but are not related. Similarly, African pottos look like Asian slow lorises.
While at QENP, we stayed first at Jacana Safari Lodge, famous of its hippos that swim around the crater lake. There are 30 of them.
In daytime, you hear them splutter and puff, often very close to houses.
Around 7 PM, the hippos use their fav landing site behind house nro 11, and march to the forest or savannah to feed on grass.
The forest is Maramagambo, governed by UWA (Ugandan Wildlife Authority) & National Forest Authority. We made two walks with their guide.
We had no previous knowledge of the bat cave that was on the agenda. The cave is home to a staggering 2 million Egyptian fruit bats.
“At dawn, it takes 3 hours of them to be all back in again.” The officer smiles widely, and concludes matter-of-factly with a “Yes”.
Non-breeding bats poop near the cave. This brings insects, food for mother & baby bats which don’t fly far to feed like the rest of the colony.
The bat guano is nothing to play with. It is known/suspected to be the cause to Marburg virus feaver.
The Jacana Lodge was on low gear. Except us, there were only two other guests, guys from CDC, Atlanta.
“Don’t step inside the cave, even if they say you can do so. Our researchers go there in protective suits.”
On the previous day, we had already been outside the open cave, filming the buzz from the nearby cliff. A mesmerizing place.
Luckily we have been travelling a bit and know e.g. that you shouldn’t go into caves just like that, not w/o a helmet.
Next day: same place, a longer filming session. Again, no official information about any risks, but also no pushing to go inside.
Forest walks are a source of income to the UWA/NFA. Negative info = less money. CDC has plans to put up warning signs. We’ll see.
When chimps hunt, they prefer Red Colobus. “In the last 3 weeks, they’ve hunted twice”, we’re told in Kibale Chimpanzee Habituation.
“Colobuses are not very bright. They don’t run away but try to fight back.”
Pied Colobus has a fancy b&w fur, a serious risk for its existence. Locals have used it as decoration in their dance rituals.
Around Jacana Safari Lodge, Pied Colobuses feel safe. They sleep around the houses, and feed in trees near the shore.
One of the marvels of this W Uganda, is their deep, guttural call in the blackness of the night.
On higher elevations, like in Bwindi (1500 m) the fur of Pied Colobus is longer. Haven’t had a chance to check that myself though.
The 2 hr boat ride on Kazinga Channel is 2 hours well spent. The number of animals basking on the shore is almost stupifying.
Hippos, buffalos, elephants, crocodiles, monitor lizards, herons, storks, fish eagles and what have you. Pied Kingfishers abound.
The HQ of the Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary has got a colorful text painted on the wall:”The home of turacos.” They don’t lie.
On a AM walk around the swamp, I saw at least a dozen Great Blue Turacos. So did the Wikipedia photographer, I guess.
“Your money”, says Brighton when we drive the surprisingly well-kept road through QENP from Jacana Lodge to Ishasa.
Bulldozers spread new gravel constantly, making both sides of the road soft and a bit hazardous. But, no potholes whatsoever.
Brighton is a man of many roles: representative of Churchill Safaris and Travel, driver, birder, and a trusted person in general.
Ishasha Wilderness Camp in QENP in Uganda was a much more diverse wildlife experience than just the tree lions.
On two days in the row, around noon, an elephant family of five came to drink to the river that runs past the camp.
A lone bull elephant was also nearby. We heard him huff & puff and broke branches. Later, he walked lazily along the river bank.
Some of the bird species at the camp: Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill, Emerald Cuckoo, Broad-billed Roller, Splendid Starling.
Spectacular Blue-headed Agamas, a group of Pied Colobus etc – every second something to watch or listen.
Although the gorilla tracking in Bwindi was a minor disappointment, the forest walk w/ Medard “Medi” Twongyeirwe was very good.
A jovial guy w/ a personal touch to nature be it butterflies or monkies, he made the AM a special one. Thanks again and greetings!
Ruanda | Rwanda
Two days ago, we crossed the border to Rwanda. The first place to visit: Volcanoes National Park up in 2 km.
The half-day gorilla tracking tour in the park was IMHO a more pleasant and pro experience in all aspects than that in Bwindi.
A 2hr muddy walk along a fresh buffalo track, through a beautiful bamboo forest, took us to the Agasha Group.
This habituated group seemed to be at ease w/ itself & us. Eating, farting, wrestling, climbing, sitting – gorilla quality time.
Although this is a tour to see part of the nature in Uganda and Rwanda, one cannot be blind to human issues either.
Near Kisoro, Uganda, were we had a lunch break before crossing the border to Rwanda, is the Nyakabange Refugee Transit Centre.
Yesterday, on our 7 hr drive from Volcanoes NP to Nyungwe Forest, we passed the Kigeme refugee camp.
Both of these sites are operated by UNHCR, and they are for people who have fled from the DR of Congo.
The primate list has grown with two: Golden Monkey (Volcanoes NP); Dent’s (Mona) Monkey (Nyungwe Forest NP)
Nyungwe Forest Lodge is built in the middle of a tea plantation owned by the Rwandan government.
Once, the area was part of the forest, faved by Mountain Elephants due to its flat profile compared to the rest of Nyungwe.
Although the biodiversity on the plantation is low, the mighty Nyungwe surrounds it, giving few surprises during our 5 night stay.
Two groups of monkies made a call: Blue & L’Hoest’s. Also, 3 types of squirrels: Sun, Rope, Mountain (hard to identify the species).
30 min drive from the Lodge on the top-notch asphalt road through the NP, is the impressive Kamiranzovu swamp.
This time though, we had no chance to see it closer than just as a view up from the road.
Thanks to the flexibility of the NP office, we could take a 3 hr forest walk w/ a local naturalist guide to see Dent’s Mona Monkeys.
Dent’s is a smallish, agile, white & brown monkey w/ a selection of human-like calls and a distinctive mask, like dark sunglasses.
Sometimes wildlife watching is so dead simple (and comfortable). Like right now, in Karibu Guesthouse, Entebbe.
Since dawn, several new bird species have passed by or briefly stayed in the garden or on the roofs of neighbour houses.
Grey Parrot (1st parrot on this trip), Eastern Grey Plantain-Eater, White-browed Robin-Chat, Scarlet-chested Sunbird.
The “aah-aaaah-aaah” laugh of Black-and-white-casqued Hornbills. Ross’s Turacos on top of the avocado tree leaning to the house.
A pair of African Hobbies (?) tries to chase Pied Crows from their nesting tree I guess. Slender figures, shrill “kri-kri-kri”
Barbets always electrify the moment. A pair of Double-toothed Barbets sits motionless up on a tree. Red chest, huge ivory bill.
Yet another stupifyingly colourful bird: Black-headed Gonolek. Lurks horizontally among branches at eye-level.
The tropical zone of the Entebbe Botanical Gardens is said to have been the backdrop of the first Tarzan film.
One cannot but envy the young NZ-Corsican couple owning & running Karibu Guesthouse with their staff of 20 and three dogs.
Perfect location with a view to Lake Victoria, elegant house, nice little garden.
At the construction site on the next lot, the ‘Silent night’ Xmas theme as the mobile tone, is a work song of the new generation.
Plantain-Eater is an odd bird. Bill of a parrot, neck of an eagle, call of a Kookaburra, moves about on a tree like a cuckoo.